Jump to content
SAU Community

Group Buy For Hid Kit (very Cheap) All Arrived


Recommended Posts

Hi guys I am currently organise a group of 10 people to purchasing a HID Conversion Kits!

I am getting them from the Factory at Overseas!

This product had been approve for ISO 9001:2000, E-Mark(EU) and DOT(USA)

It have 3 of the most popular bulbs available: H1, H3 and H4 Hi/Low Beam

It is seal in a Metal Case and come with English set up manual!!

Price of kit is $220 (H1, H3) $270 (H4 Hi/Low Beams) pick up from BRISBANE

Also comes with 1 year warranty from the Factory

Group buying will be end 30/10/2006 11:59pm Firm

post-26345-1159945205.jpg

post-26345-1159945279.jpg

Edited by R34 GT
  • 2 weeks later...
All HID Kit are in Brisbane (Arrived) You can come and view them so no more postage and Tax to be pay!!!!

Hi mate,

where abouts in brisbane are they...id like to come have a look at em...i might be interested in a week or so

are these a direct plug in, or must you splice to fit resistors etc?

have you had them fitted on a skyline?

what colour range are they?

they direct plug in only take 10 mins and I have them fitted on all my skyline (Gts-t, GTR) Colour between 6000K-7000K if I put more than 7000K its illegal and the cops like that!! Any more question 0430073840

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...