Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-25855-1160488084.jpgHey!

I got a gigant problem on my hands, i own a 93 r33 gtst, that recently has started acting weird, just clicking when i turn the key.

First off i thought it was the battery beeing low, but according to the batteryloader the battery is full, and it still doesnt work. I have tried 2 different batteryloaders.

Another weird thing is when i turn the key the dashlights turn on as they should, but i still cant unlock the passengerdoor and i cant get the windows to move!

Yesterday when leaving work, it didnt start, so i used cables from the bosses car to load the battery, but it didnt react at all, then after ac couple of keyturnings the starterengine started spinning and it was back to normal.

Later on i was going to leave home, and the car didnt react at all, so some friends came over and pushed the car, trying to jumpstart it, and that worked.

When i bought the car i found a little japanese box under the dash, called ComTec BeTime a-21, found some info on it, and it seems to be a caralarm, but the controller didnt come with the car.

Some babelfish-translated info:

"With remote control engine start

The turbo timer which can be chosen from OFF 30 seconds 1 minute 5 minutes

10 minutes 20 minutes 30 minutes 40 minute change warmth hours

As for remote control life waterproof anti-bacterial specification"

I took a picture of it hoping someone might be able to tell me if that is the problem, or if the battery actually is bad, and im just unlucky when it comes to batteryloaders.

Cheers!

-David

Edited by brother_david
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138134-got-a-major-problem-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Ok. First, triple check your car battery, as I had a duff battery, and when it went flat *ish* - aka dash lights, but no ignition - I found that it had also flattened the immobiliser battery - So, no fuel pump starting, no ignition. (oh, and no remote unlock, either)

When that happened, You need to have another power source, such as a jump or extra battery pack, leave connected for >5 mins, and then try and start.

(It used to take at least 5 mins, without trying to start it, until I could hear the fuel pump prime, and all would be good)

If that fixes it, then it's probably the battery!

If not... time to get the workshop manuals, and work out what is getting in the way...

Edited by Zebbie

Its finally working again!

The problem was probably due to a cable the japanese owner had put on the +pole in the engine bay, it gave some space for dirt and other fun stuff to get in and grow.

Thanks for your help!

Cheers!

-David

no problems :P

i had the same problem and found out the hard way one day when i was parked on a clearway.. that's right i had to move my car within 3hrs or it would be towed. i called out a mobile autoelectrician as i couldn't see any problem and had no tools on me. felt pretty silly when we worked out what it was, and $120 later i also felt angry!

all the best,

Warren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...