Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had all kinds of trouble a few months ago with my series 1 R31, it started kangaroo hopping and became rather undrivable. Got to the point where it would die after driving it for a while. If i left it overnight and came back it seemed to be fine. Gradually got worse. I was told it sounds like the CAS.

I got hold of a VL distributer / CAS, but for the life of me cannot get the car to fire. I've had 2 mates with a pretty good idea reset the timing / rotor with no luck.

After doing a fair bit of reading i've found the VL distributer is actually a different brand to the R31. It does fit, uses a different rotor, but nobody seems to be able to tell me for certain if the VL distributer DOES work in an R31, or if i've been wasting my time with this in my R31.

So can anybody confirm 100% for certain if the VL dizzy/CAS will work in an R31 ?

Im chasing a proper R31 dizzy at this stage in a last ditch effort.

VLs only got the hitachi type CAS, which 31's had too but it wasn't common for early 31's like yours. 31's used both hitachi and mitsubishi, which are not interchangable.

As long as you are swapping the whole dizzy with the cas that it originally came with a vl one will work no worries, people have done this. If you just put in a VL cas though it more than likely will not work.

From what you've said it should work going off other peoples testimonials. So really all I can suggest is to hunt down a 31 dizzy/cas.

Edited by aDrew_C

There should be no problems swapping the whole dizzy, unless the one you bought is f**ked for some reason.

Just some advice, have a shot asking at http://forum.r31skylineclub.com they know their rb30e's and r31's.

But from what I know about it, it should work unless something else is wrong...

i think you can use either make of dizzy, but the Mitzi is better? thats just what i remember from forum talk. the only thing i can think of is the CAS is shagged. my old one gotr to a point where the car would run but if you touched the plug for the CAS the car would die.

Edited by rsx84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...