Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm toying with the idea of repowering an A31 with a nissan Y40 V8.

It'd be a fairly straight forward coversion I think. But does anyone have any clues about what would be involved in bypassing the ECU? Do things like the signal for the temperature guage come from the ECU?

Your thoughts please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138410-efi-to-carb-conversion/
Share on other sites

run the factory ECU and just do not run injectors. use a carby to control fuel and let the ECU do the rest.

Why the hell would you want to do it anyway?

I have seen some nice quad throttle SR20's that rev to 10,000 with huge cams.

buy why with a Y40?

Because I can get one with a rebuit auto quite cheap. Plus it would make a nice cruiser. 190hp, and no lag. The cool sound of a V8, and the comfort of a ceffy. Plus the rocker covers are aluminium with "NISSAN" cast on them.

It'd be something a bit different. And, it would do mean skids! :teehee:

Lumpy cams?

The Y40 is a single cam pushrod V8, out of an old school president. I wouldn't shag around souping it up. I have other toys for that. Lopey idle's wear thin pretty quick. Plus the Y40 is only a three main crank, so revving them past 6000 is a recipe for broken engines. I just think it would be a nice cruiser.

well, cam then...or not

at least do some justice to it with extractors and a decent exhaust to make it sound alright

about the ecu tho, wouldn't it chuck a wobbly since there are no injectors to run?

Edited by usherly

Thats kind of what I was wondering. I'd rather remove the ecu, and just bridge out the wires nessesary to make it run, and to make the guages function. I'd need to reg down the fuel pressure. (If not change the pump) I'd be starting with an RB20E car, so there's not guite as much gadgetry to delete.

if the ECU chucks a wobbly cos there are no injectors, plug em back in and just dont use them...

you said "the comfort of a ceffy"

have you been in one? they are like dirty old VN commodores!!!

get a laurel and drop in a Infinity motor. Now that would be the shiz

Ive owned over 30 cars so far, and my A31 is by far the newest. Hence the comfort. As for buying a laurel and a hell expensive motor, that defeats the whole purpose. I have lots of other toys I'd rather invest the big dollars in. It's all about doing stuff on the cheap for me. Any fool can blow a huge wad of cash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...