Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Wobbles

thrtytwo
 Share

Recommended Posts

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
Posted

where would i take this to get it fixed, is it expensive.

is it steering bushes ? ive seen that term thrown around

only starts wobbling at 100kmph + but i still dont like it >.<

i tried searching but couldnt find anything :)

help would be appreciated :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138476-steering-wobbles/
Share on other sites
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

what type of tyres have you got?

sometimes its the tyres. weak sidewall tyres like nankangs can give you the shakes at high speeds.

a guy i know put these on the rear of his xr6 ute and it was wobbling all over the fwy. he took them off the next day, problem solved. and that was on the rear.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

You need new uni joints in your tail shaft. Trust me, my old car did it. BADLY (Uni was shot to pieces) replaced, shake gone.

Skyline does it too, and I know the uni joint in tail shaft needs replacing.

Do you get a "clunk" at all when you go from 1st, to reverse (When on the spot with engine running) and then go to reverse?

If you get on the gas once the vibration is up, it all goes away doesn't it?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
You need new uni joints in your tail shaft. Trust me, my old car did it. BADLY (Uni was shot to pieces) replaced, shake gone.

Skyline does it too, and I know the uni joint in tail shaft needs replacing.

Do you get a "clunk" at all when you go from 1st, to reverse (When on the spot with engine running) and then go to reverse?

If you get on the gas once the vibration is up, it all goes away doesn't it?

only problem with this is that he said he feels it through the steering wheel but the car isn't shaking. if the uni is gone you should feel the car shake. if it is shaking the steering wheel then it is either suspension or wheel balance.

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

i will be getting it balanced during the week, didnt have time today. will see how that go's. but i also need some stiffer suspension :S my rear tyres rub the guards quite a bit even under soft turning, they dont slice the tyre, just rub, but it still sounds shit !

p.s. when i bought the car i was told it had aftermarket suspension but i had a look and unless its well ran in i highly doubt it. its dirty as heck and really soft.

Edited by thrtytwo
Zebbie Rising Star

Zebbie

Posted
Posted

Hmm. I had this on my '33 GTST..... it turned out that one of my front bushes had been broken (read smashed) by a pothole that had seriously damaged both front rims...

I ended up having to get a WhiteLine poly brush set.. I'm not sure of the right name for it, but they were <> 100 from Just Jap...

They were nice yellow plastic bushings, cylindrical, with a hole through the middle, and a lip on the outside.

If you need to, i'll have a look through my receipts....

The Symptoms I was having :

Shaking on the steering wheel, but not always. When shaking it felt rhythmic, similar to having an out of balance wheel, or *BENT* wheel.

(Yes, I know what that feels like, thanks to NSW rural roads... go the RTA! )

Sometimes, it would go away for a day, then a small bump in the road might set off the shaking again.

No other shaking etc for any other part of the car, that I could tell.

If this has happened to you, check *VERY* carefully for serious excess wear on the inside edge of both front tires.

(When we worked out what it was, the inside edge of one of my tires was down to the canvas, while the outside was <>60% )

Sorry for the rambiling post... hope it helps.

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i knew the rest just not the 94 bit :)

thanks though !

and to the post before you, i only bought the car last thursday, so it has brand new tyres on it, which means if there was a wear pattern to see, i wont see it. Ill see what happens during the week, if it still wobbles after wheel alignment i will get new bushings ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...