Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have taken this off cruisingbrisbane.com as they told me Phil found this car for sale on this forum...

I am trying to locate the previous owner of this R33:

64487318.Lgtg3Mqw.pic02.jpg

64487454.7MR7s7y4.pic06.jpg

I know both number plates are different, I am not sure what order the photos were taken - but it is the same car. I bought the car in March from Brisbane, from a guy called Phil who is a member on this forum. Since I bought her I have rebuilt the engine with forged internals, and went to throw her on the dyno today only to find the stupid MoTeC M600 has been locked by the previous tune which was done here:

64279464.UDLMbXrn.dynoaftermods.JPG

A mate of mine knows the guy who he thought worked at 101 Motorsport Cafe, but found out tonight he has since sold the business. (2 months ago). Never the less, if someone knows the person before Phil owned the car, who had her tuned at 101 Motorsport Cafe, can they please let me know ASAP.

I need to unlock to MoTeC before she can be tuned, and my mate Dale (on many forums known as 10sec_rx7) leaves Darwin on Tuesday lunch to go back to Sydney.

If anyone can help... please do so!

:(

Phee

Nobody knows who owned it before Phil?

I don't think Phil was the guy who got her tuned, I think it was the owner prior to him so I want to find him to see if he knows the password to unlock the Motec so I can tune her.

That's just bloody ridiculous. Stupid tuners locking the ecu. It makes the thing basically useless.

Basiaclly, I would approach the business, and just let them know nicely, that you want to get your ecu retuned, and that they had previously locked it, and therefore, you need the code.

If they object, saying that the tune is their property, say, ok, fine, unlock it, and i'll let you delete the tune or something of that sort.

But basiaclly, imo, it's wrong, and if I knew that a workshop did that, I wouldn't go there.

The idea is that it's meant to be programmable e.g. like with a powerfc, you can change it via the handset. If some bastard has locked it ...

Have you contacted 'phil' and asked him?

Phil wouldn't have been the one who tuned the car, it would have been the owner before Phil who did all the mods on her. I was hoping that since that Phil only owned the car from Dec 05 to March 06, someone would still know who owned it before him and I could ask him, but I doubt he would know it either. I have a few options on what I can do.

1) Call 101 Motorcafe first thing Monday morning and see if they will release (know) the password. A mate of mine who owns PF is mates with the guy who he thought owned 101 but apparently sold the business 2 months ago and doesn't really care about telling us what the code is. I hope the new owners are a bit more considerate.

2) If we have no luck with 101 then I have mates who have direct contact with the inside people at MoTeC, and might be able to help me out getting an override code.

3) If all of the above fail, yet another mate has the powers to download the file to override everything and start from scratch. Dale told me this will take about 4 - 5 hours on the dyno, which is a long haul, but he is willing to do it for me which is awesome of him.

I am pulling all my contacts out of my black book for this one :)

Edited by phee

We got her unlocked. Dale spoke with the Tech guys at MoTeC directly after we told thm what 101 wanted to unlock the code and they talked Dale through it over the phone.

101 wanted $1000 for the code, so a few of us banded together to give them a hard time. It is only going to get worse. Zoom, Hot4's, Race and Perth Street Car all know what 101 have done and they are going to be printing articles about it.

If I lived in QLD I would NOT be taking any car near 101. The tunes aren't that spectacular so I have heard anyway, and if they lock your ECU and you want to take it somewhere else, you have to either give them $1,000 or take it to them, they will charge you dyno time to put a base map in her, and then you'll need to get it towed to the place you want to tune her.

If you like headaches, and being f**ked over, go to 101 motorcafe.

I had this discussion with my engine builder back in the 60s when I built my car.

He suggests that its actually illegal for a tuner to do this - being so long ago I can't actually remember the specifics of where this fell in terms of being illegal - but I'd tend to think along the lines of goods not fit for sale. Though you didn't directly pay for the tune so I suppose in that respect you're at a standstill.

HTH.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...