Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jeff check AFM, i was working on my car afew days ago, forgot to reconnect the AFM, car started ok and idled fine but once i tried driving it,it shit itself. Where are you now Xizor, i could come over and have a look???

XIZOR will be home around 230, so ill head over there with tools and start by checking afm, then change fuel filter then we try installing the pump. if you can come over too thats cool he wanted someone who did a pump before.

XIZOR will be home around 230, so ill head over there with tools and start by checking afm, then change fuel filter then we try installing the pump. if you can come over too thats cool he wanted someone who did a pump before.

Get Xizor to PM me his address or where ever the car is.

Nope, you throw it in diag mode and it runs its tests and throws out a code (by flashing a light (dash light or light on the ecu). You count the flashes and then compare the number to that in a list. It then may show something like code blah... coolant temp sensor or code blah afm etc etc..

You can even throw it in an o2 test mode where it flashes the light as the o2 sensor goes high/low. An easy way to determine if your o2 sensor is shagged, lazy, or not.

From what i remember you can do this by bending a paper clip in a 'U' shape and sticking it in a couple of holes. Have a quick search for it and also find the codes so you can count the flashes and read it.

Sorry guys, if i knew that you would be working on the cars this arvo i would have come over and lent my expertise(?), lol.

for all those who are wondering... problem turned out to be that the cold air box over the pod had damaged a wire to the afm over time. i soldered a new wire in and span the afm around and mounted the pod bracket to a different bolt, so that this cant happen again.

only 2-3 strands of the damaged wire were cut, so we were able to idle and rev but as the load increased the afm was unable to send an accurate output to the ecu, and the motor would stop. as far as i know these wires are only running power that the ecu compares to 5 volts, so any small damage has a dramatic effect to the current i guess.

dont mind me im trying to sound smart lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...