Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, just finished changing my oil and filter and doing the check over, have discovered two problems

The 1st is in my HKS super dragger muffler/tip in the middle of all the honeycomb, theres what looks like steel whool. Like in the middle of where the air goes through, on top of the honeycomb. Its impeding air flow (if only slightly) but i cant get it out, it seems stuck. Any suggestions as to what it could be? How bad it'd be? Theres not a huge amount, and its not dense, but say 2 inch's high and 6 long theres strands/clumps of it.

Ok and the 2nd is a odd ticking which sounds like its coming from my inlet manifold. On idle with a screwdriver to my ear its pretty distinct, about 30 clicks every ten seconds, with a screw driver to the tapet cover i can hear it to, 30 clicks every ten seconds, was wondering if thats a prob?? Could a mis firing shock coil make that sound? It sounds like one of those gas lighters you use on your stove on the inlet manifold and sort of more of a grinding sound on the rocket. My alternator is gone to, so i dnno if that could be like transferring sound or something

THe car runs fine, and has no probs though

Thanks

the steel wool could have come out of the muffler as thats what they use in them.

and the ticking sound sounds like an injector. try listen to each injector with a screw driver and see if any 1 is loud.

cheers

Yep i'll second the steel wool in muffler diagnosis. They use that to baffle the muffler. Sounds like its falling apart as it will with age/corrosion. Head will either be injectors as previously mentioned or more likely the hydraulic valve lifters. If you have changed oil viscosity that will affect how noisy they are especially if some are on the way out and loosing their tension..

ah thanks guys

I did try to pull the stuff out of the muffler but its half connected so i'll just leave it i think

forgot to mention that before the oil change the ticking noise was happening, and it hasn't changed tone since the change. i'll check the injectors tomorrow individually (cant picture how i would get at them), but how do i check if its a lifter?

ok i stuck the screwdriver on the base of the injectors, in between the little metal lines, branching off each, onto the injector rail and the actual injector.

The noise from the injector 1 was the loudest (loud click, click, click), and the noise from the injector 6 was the quietest (still distinct and not much quieter than number 1) . Number 1 had no other noises, and as they progressed to 6, the other ones seemed to get a noise like that coming out of the head in them although im assuming thats just because its getting closer to something or other as i move from one part of the engine to the other

Suggestions guys? Its only faint at the inlet manifold which is why im surprised its so loud at the injectors, its audible from about 5 meters away from the car, mind you (hard to pinpoint where its coming from)

lifters make a clack clack sound and injectors make a tink tink sound.

hope this helps.

BTW no1 is the coolest running cyl as it gets cooled the best. so it is likely to be the seat of the injector is buggered. disconnect the plug to this injector and see if it goes away.

all have a sound, althought it does vary from 1-6, its not a large amount of variation. These make more of a ting ting sound, but i was expecting one injector to sound significantly different to the others.. which didnt happen, so i would assume either all injectors were shagged (100% unlikely) or the noise is coming from elsewhere. Now the noise doesnt seem as loud on the inlet manifold as it is on the covers, but it does seem loud up the line from the injectors (as in before the fuel has reached them

But how do i check if one of my lifters is wrecked? Overhead cam.. Was pretty sure it didnt have lifters :)

haha nar come to think of it the injectors can get pretty loud. but it a quite a fast click noise.

lifters will make a variety of noises. ranging from the wack wack noise to the commodore v6 worn guides click click.

just unplug them 1 by one as the others said to narow it down.

all have a sound, althought it does vary from 1-6, its not a large amount of variation. These make more of a ting ting sound, but i was expecting one injector to sound significantly different to the others.. which didnt happen, so i would assume either all injectors were shagged (100% unlikely) or the noise is coming from elsewhere. Now the noise doesnt seem as loud on the inlet manifold as it is on the covers, but it does seem loud up the line from the injectors (as in before the fuel has reached them

But how do i check if one of my lifters is wrecked? Overhead cam.. Was pretty sure it didnt have lifters :laugh:

Im not sure if the RB20 is hydraulic or solid?

If hydraulic you have to pull them out and either get new one/ones or let them sit in bucket of oil for a day or 2 - no garantee to fixing them either!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...