Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ,

Ive just done a RB20 conversion in my VL and its running rich as pumpin black smoke out idleing all the time, i cleaned my O2 sensor with degreaser and put it bak it and no smoke and run great for good 5 mins but the startd running ruff and pumping out smoke. I tryd washing it agian but didnt do nething.

Also on boost at 3500-4000 i start miss fired/ backfiring but i rekn thats a coil problem?

So i was wondering if any1 in Adelaide would have spare coils and a ECU i could borrow to see if mine i stuffed?

il pay you for letting me borrow the stuff, money or beers whateva u want.

Dont no whatelse to do?

Need to find out whats going on with car b4 weekend.

Thanks Damo!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139530-rb20det-problems/
Share on other sites

I would tend to ignore testing the ecu for now.

Look back at the afm and o2 sensor.

First disconnect the o2 sensor completely. See if it runs better.

Unforunately I don't have a stock afm anymore so You cant test that. :laugh:

With regards to the missfire... Grab a set of BCPR6E NGK spark plugs (grab them from Motor traders at around $3.00 each)

If your running the std gap 1.1mm this may be your problem. so A set of BCPR6E Coppers will get you on your way.

Hey,

I check my Valve timing today and there’s alignment marks on the cams and back cover and the inlet cam was 2 teeth out and exhaust 1 tooth out?

Is this a problem?

I reset the cams so both alignment marks lined up with the alignment marks on back cover. This made car run better and less black smoke but still rich, drove better but and let me boost more but still missing on boost, changed coils so don’t thing they r causing it?

What do you people think?

Thanks Damo!!!

I reset the cams so both alignment marks lined up with the alignment marks on back cover. This made car run better and less black smoke but still rich, drove better but and let me boost more but still missing on boost, changed coils so don’t thing they r causing it?

What do you people think?

What plug gap are you running.. Even with new coils you need to run a 0.8mm gap.

cubes it wouldnt be a air leek ?? sucking in too much air through the inlet sumwhere?

Could be a split i/c hose or something, from experience they tend to really kill power with a rough/miss type feel. Kill power to the point of it almost doesn't accelerate.

What plug gap are you running.. Even with new coils you need to run a 0.8mm gap.

Could be a split i/c hose or something, from experience they tend to really kill power with a rough/miss type feel. Kill power to the point of it almost doesn't .

Hey,

Yeh im still running 0.8s.

Everythnig seems ok tho vac hoses, cooler pipes ect? cant seem to see anything crackered, ripped, cant feel or hear any leaks, it accelerates now, goes better then b4 atfer doing valve timing, dunno why they woulda been out so much?

hopfuly my Dyno shop will be able to help me out with it 2moro?

I need some info on the difference from RB20DET redtop injectors and Silvertop injectors?

Think the problem with it running rich is the ECU is telling the ijectors to pump to much fuel in.

Now i have Redtop injectors with a i guess silvertop ECU

Coz putn a RB25 ECU in stopd it running rich.

The RB25 had a less ohm rated injector pulse or sumthnig from ECU

But Silvertop RB20 must have a high pulse or sumthnig so its making my injectors pump 2 much.

So my ECU could b stuff or it could be just the redtop injectors dont work with silvertop ECU?

Ne info on Redtop injectors compared to silvertop would great.

Thanks Damo!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...