Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I am blowing smoke and I gave that up ages ago!

The old girl needs replacing (after 250,000kms!) so I thought I would see what people had (if anything).

I only need to replace the engine itself so really don't need the manifolds, turbo, loom, ecu, box ect... but will take what I can get.

I would perfer locally as I would like to avoid paying for shipping but I guess someone had to! I don't like my chances :)

If you don't have one, do you know where the best place to source one would be? I purchased my MR2 1/2 cut from Asian Auto Spares and was very happy but haven't found too many sites so any help would be great!

I have PM'd Dan to see if he still has his and I will keep looking around!

Thanks in advance guys!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/
Share on other sites

dont supose you want to look into rebiulding one? im pretty sure that dan is putting his rb back into his 31.

quite a few people have blow ones sitting around so sourcing another motor to biuld up so you can keep driving wouldnt be hard.

im not sure on costs of something like this but matt had and engine and rebiuld kit for sale a while back. maybe pm him and quiz him on his findings?

if your going to stick with a 20 than thats what i would do because you will know the engine will be strong.

hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/#findComment-2604302
Share on other sites

Cheers Damo.

From what I hear Raymond has an RB20 with genuine 70k kms on the clock for sale (after upgrading to an RB25).

It made around 156rwkw with less mods than mine with Dr Drift when mine made 135rwkw so it is obviously pretty healthy. I hope that with my Exhaust, Filter, EBC, Bosch 040, FMIC, R34 turbo, GTR injectors and Z32 AMF I should be looking at 180-190rwkw...

As I said mine has 250,000kms so it it probably best to get something fresh and start my long-term rebuild... (still not sure if I will flog mine off for parts and buy a blown RB25 and build that up with forgies ect).

Anyway, I hope Raymond still has his motor availible so I can plan the future of my little chitty chitty bang bang. (still fine to drive but want something reliable before Dr Drift comes back down!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/#findComment-2604435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...