Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Greg,

Well that’s pretty silly paint lol, I wonder why they would bother putting it on then? anyway, I’ll be getting a set of these, how would i go about getting the paint off?

What are the downsides to not heat wrapping them? just a hotter engine bay or will other things go wrong?

I am still a bit hesitant about heat wrapping mine because I heard that you can do damage too them when they don't cool down quick enough. Have you come across any of these problems?

ohh and what heat wrap did you use?

Thanks mate,

Regards,

Sean'O

i didnt really think heat was such a big issue with headers, obviously the engine bay is a little warmer, and you might get a cool orange glow if you give it enough stick - but since headers deal with exhaust gases and the gases are constantly being expelled i cant see any sort of large significant gain.

although someone can come tell me otherwise, i'd like to know as well.

Hmm, well that all looks very pretty but, it sounds very expensive and in my case a bit unnecessary,

I only have a RB20DE, and its not a dragster lol, so I don't think I will need the heat protection presuming that the extra heat by just having them in there won't damage anything during everyday driving.

However I would like the corrosion protection to make them last a bit longer, wouldn't the caliper paint (as suggested above) be sufficient here?

What we need here is an opinion by somebody who installs exhausts, or someone who has had this particular unit for a while.

I'm still assuming that the level of heat protection etc is dependant upon the style of driving your car goes through, if you just drive to work and back I would guess that ceramic coating is a bit extreme, but if you do track work or something, maybe its worth it.

Again I’m just prating on, we really need some guidance here,

Regards,

Sean'O

The bottom of my intake pipe started to melt from the high temperatures. This could have caused a fire and ultimate destruction of engine. This, and the power gains, is why I recommend to heat wrap them. Having said this there are plenty of people using them un heat wrapped without dramas

The orange paint is just to stop them rusting while they're in the shop etc. so they look good.

You could use a blowtorch to get the paint off, or paint stripper, or just heat wrap over it, won't be the end of the world.

Cheers

Greg

thanks for your input greg, much appreciate it...

guys please check the group buy thread, i have updated the first post accordingly - and will need each one of you to state what it is exactly that you want. then we can finalize prices.

see here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=140134

i'm getting a 2.5" outlet, gasket, hpc coated with economy delivery and it's totaled to AUD$425 which is an absolute steal!!!

guys, some good news... i've called up and we are pretty much good to go.

- they are able to cut the outlet back to 2.25 to 2.50", since i know most of you would have/looking into a catback system in future.

- hpc coating is AUD$170 per header.

- i've also made mention about the orange paint and they are looking into that, obviously not a worry with HPC coating.

- i've also made arrangements for a variety of shipment, these will go from them straight to your door.

- rb30e extractor is also available (the code is D5) and i have sweet talked them into including that into the arranged price with rb20/25.

shipment options

International Express (1-3 days) AUD$100.00

International Air (3-6 days) AUD$70.00

International Economy ( 10-15 days) AUD$60.00

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2659059

another update guys... please check the first post of the group buy thread - make sure everything adds up accordingly and is correct.

confirm with me and i'll provide you with bank details.

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Well just got myself one... Can't wait to hear the extractors on my r34... It already sound rippy... imagine with extractors and 2.5' exhaust mmm =]~. Oh also If you guys are to get one or anything from eug. do so he makes things so easy ^_^ and obviously well trusted! Cheers eug again.

Edited by Specrzx
  • 2 weeks later...

you should receive yours well before anybody else buddy, since you have air freight and are not waiting on hpc coating.

check the link in my sig to check the group buy thread for updates.

according to the email i recieved yours was sent out on the 29th of november so give it 3-6 working days... expect them around the end of the coming week, or beginning of the week after. let me know otherwise.

please be patient, this stuff is coming internationally

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...