Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This build up makes mine seem quick :)

gtr32 - should be the goods when shes done. And you had better post a video going flat out up mountain straight.....Just put some winfield stickers on it and call every one a "Pack of arseholes" at the end and we'll all be happy no matter what power it makes ;)

  • Replies 281
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This build up makes mine seem quick :laugh:

gtr32 - should be the goods when shes done. And you had better post a video going flat out up mountain straight.....Just put some winfield stickers on it and call every one a "Pack of arseholes" at the end and we'll all be happy no matter what power it makes :glare:

yeh i cannot wait to see her going...

and yeh i will get a vid ill just have to be careful....

yeh sure was a good feeling to just here it.have a slight exhaust leak down there somewhere but the clutch has tio go in still so ill worry about then...

final specs are as follows

gt2860r-5

120mm drag cooler

600cc tomei injectors

2l surge tank with 044 and 33gtr intank pump

os giken twin plate

titanium catback 31/4 inch

2.5-3 frontpipes

jjr dumps

hks cam gears

PFC+HANDCONTROLLER

hks coilovers\

hks cam gears

prob more but cant think..

aiming for 330rwkw so wish me luck...heres a little vid of the test drive up my street..

start_up_gtr.wmv

the os twin plate is in and to tell the truth the clutch feels really good.not to hard on the foot or jumpy...

had bit a issue with one of the fuel line going to the 044 blowing out and filling the back of my car with fuel.went down under rear seats etc.fixed now but have the bloody fuel smell in the car.can this be washed out or will it fade after time.i have pulled the top of the rear sear out,boot carpet,all the liner under rear seat etc.but i cant for the life of me get the bottom half of the rear seats out.

any help with ideas on how to get rid of smell will be great

cheers kane

p.s running sweet as now fuel leak was fixed

HAHA i can see seans car in that video too.

Screw drive (a big one) under the seat where there they attach to the floor and pull up. they sould go down then up but i had the same problem one would come out but not the other.

HAHA i can see seans car in that video too.

Screw drive (a big one) under the seat where there they attach to the floor and pull up. they sould go down then up but i had the same problem one would come out but not the other.

sean was a life saver coming down to help.thanks again mate.

ive just taken out what i could washed it and every afternoon i get the gtr out and open all the windows doors boot etc and air it.i nthink the petrol smell willk fade in time

  • 3 years later...

Hey Fellas ,

i know this thread is going back a while now but instead of making a new topic i thought id keep this one going. i've got a healthy 1994 GTR and i'm fair new to this game and it so happens i wanted the goal of 300-320 AWKW give or take aswell. I would love to reach it but the most important thing to me is reliability but obviously id love to hit my goal.

My mate spoke to his tuner and his tuner said anything over 260awkw is pushing the reliability out the window and becoming a ticking time bomb without a rebuilt engine.

I was curious of your thoughts, I've read the entire thread here and seems to have gave me some tips but im still confused, because heaps of people run over 270 in a GTST and whatnot :S.

My car is pretty much a stocker no internals as i know have been changed. All that would really help would be the N1 Oil Pump and N1 Water pump and Yellow Jacket Coil pack and iridium spark plugs.

The engine was taken out a few months before i owned it and he had replaced every seal, every belt and inspected everything for rust etc etc and all was clean... I also had a MTA inspection on this car when i bought it for my peace at mind and the guy said it was one of the healthiest gtrs so that was great for me !

I don't do 8grand dumps or burnouts on streets... i would go to the drags every now and a again, i do give my car a lil but i'm never really bouncing off the limiter. Its a pride and joy for a reason to me :)

Thanks for anyones help i appreciate it.

Edited by sultanaz

did they do a compression test when they checked it out?

if not, that would be the first thing i would do, and as long as you have proof or know for certain that the belt was changed and your not going off what someone says, i would get the belt changed asap or atleast looked at. but if what your saying turns out to be a very good condition gtr then your engine should be fine, and with the right supporting mods you shouldnt have a problem with between 300-320rwkw.

i mean as you know a motor can always go bang, but just a quick search is showing that many people have run 350rwkw on standard bottom ends for years, but others have blown 2-3 engines with that power on stock internals.

and yes, from experience once pushing past 260-280rwkw on a gtst, they are fine but after a year of abuse, your compression wil start to decrease, not in every case but in mine, i mean it still went and went good, but i could notice she wasnt as crisp as she used to be. gtr's on the other hand can handle a little bit more

the thing is you never know what you will need or what you wont, things may fail, things may not, thats where making it reliable costs money. for example "john" prefers to wait for his afm's to stuff up before he replaces them and "peter" would prefer to replace them before they go bang and damage anything else. thats my theory on reliability, save up, put the proper supporting mods on, fuel, spark, induction ect check your pumps and get a good tune from the best workshop in your area, then you can feel safe about your car and get pointed in the right direction in the future.

so yes, IMO, if your engine is in the condition that you claim it is, 300-320 rwkw with supporting mods on a healthy rb26 should fine.

dont beleive anyone who tells you about massive drive train losses either, awkw-rwkw have been tested on many cars to only lose between 2-5kw and the most i have read was 10-15kw max absolute max, depending on dynos of course but if it was such a difference everybody would be driving around in rwd gtr's, this simply isnt the case.

did they do a compression test when they checked it out?

if not, that would be the first thing i would do, and as long as you have proof or know for certain that the belt was changed and your not going off what someone says, i would get the belt changed asap or atleast looked at. but if what your saying turns out to be a very good condition gtr then your engine should be fine, and with the right supporting mods you shouldnt have a problem with between 300-320rwkw.

i mean as you know a motor can always go bang, but just a quick search is showing that many people have run 350rwkw on standard bottom ends for years, but others have blown 2-3 engines with that power on stock internals.

and yes, from experience once pushing past 260-280rwkw on a gtst, they are fine but after a year of abuse, your compression wil start to decrease, not in every case but in mine, i mean it still went and went good, but i could notice she wasnt as crisp as she used to be. gtr's on the other hand can handle a little bit more

the thing is you never know what you will need or what you wont, things may fail, things may not, thats where making it reliable costs money. for example "john" prefers to wait for his afm's to stuff up before he replaces them and "peter" would prefer to replace them before they go bang and damage anything else. thats my theory on reliability, save up, put the proper supporting mods on, fuel, spark, induction ect check your pumps and get a good tune from the best workshop in your area, then you can feel safe about your car and get pointed in the right direction in the future.

so yes, IMO, if your engine is in the condition that you claim it is, 300-320 rwkw with supporting mods on a healthy rb26 should fine.

dont beleive anyone who tells you about massive drive train losses either, awkw-rwkw have been tested on many cars to only lose between 2-5kw and the most i have read was 10-15kw max absolute max, depending on dynos of course but if it was such a difference everybody would be driving around in rwd gtr's, this simply isnt the case.

Thanks for the advice man, yeh a compression test was done and they were all perfect. all the tests made a healthy outcome.. i still think its worth building it cus if shit blows ill end up spending more money trying to fix shit. if were to build it what will i be looking at replacing exactly? Rods pistons etc, but i dont no everything so if anyone can help me out on exactly what i need that will be awesome :D

theres plenty of threads on this with heaps of info about building motors, and it depends on what you want out of the motor, once you start talking rebuilds theres a million different was you can go. are you rebuilding it yourself or you just want to source parts and take it to your mechanic.

another thing, rebuilding your engine can be a costly experience, and if you dont have the funds at hand, it can also be a lengthy process because you run into all these hidden factors with different parts ect. if you have the cash and want to rebuild it thats fine, but what your saying is you have a very healthy engine so im not sure if i would rebuild it straight away, maybe even if you tuned it to 300kw to keep it healthy, remember, you could get 50,000kms out of it or more, thats 50,000kms less on your fresh rebuild, but if you have the money and can do it all at once , it def wont hurt the engine.

all depends on your situation, another thing with rb26s, take it to someone who doesnt know what their doing and you will be paying for it twice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...