Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got my car tuned properly after i found the problem...it was nothing but a leak in my BOV. Before the problem the car was making 175 rwks. after we fixed it, it made 205 kws and once 207rwks. Picked up 30kws cos of that little problem. Thought it mite have been a block cat so i took that off, it wasnt it. Checked the afm, wasnt it. checked if one the blades had come off the turbo and it wasnt it. checked the lines on the boost controller. finally checked the bloody BOV.

Car: 1993 r33 gts-t

Mods: FMIC, BOV, blitz EBC, pod, slpit dump/front pipe, high flow metal body cat, Cat back exhuast, power FC and walbro 500hp fuel pump. tuned at just under 12psi.

post-29367-1161936033.jpg

post-29367-1161936074.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140673-finally-tuned-and-the-results/
Share on other sites

thanks mate

no it was inside the bov itself. just inside the trumpet, there was a little black thing, so he pulled it off and it was just a rubber seal. i cant tell you nemore, but yeh after that it was fine. i remember before that, i was only starting to build boost at 3000rpm and full boost by 4000. now its boosting in the low-mid 2000rpm and close to full boost somwhere around 3000-3500 rpm. Yeh top end feels better, but mid-range grunt is more surprising.

shouldnt it be making more? you got management etc, i made 196kw on 14psi(with an 18psi spike mid run) mods are same as yours except no cat and no pfc. this is on a rb20 with a suspected vg30 turbo im not trying to put your car down, its just i see these figures and wonder why my very very mild rb20 is up around the level of moderate rb25's

Edited by dead32
shouldnt it be making more? you got management etc, i made 196kw on 14psi(with an 18psi spike mid run) mods are same as yours except no cat and no pfc. this is on a rb20 with a suspected vg30 turbo im not trying to put your car down, its just i see these figures and wonder why my very very mild rb20 is up around the level of moderate rb25's

put it this way, standard trubo rb25det's max power is around 210rkws. A lot of people with the same mods find their power varies between 190-210 rwks depending on a number of factors: dyno, condition of turbo, engine, etc etc. You say you made 196 kws. now you arent too sure on what turbo u used. if you say its has vg30 housing running 14psi is fine and on a rb20det that power figure sounds about rite, but remeber im only running 12 psi becuase its a standard turbo. Also its not just the max power thats important. Ive noticed more power across the entire rev-range.

Edited by moonus
shouldnt it be making more? you got management etc, i made 196kw on 14psi(with an 18psi spike mid run) mods are same as yours except no cat and no pfc. this is on a rb20 with a suspected vg30 turbo im not trying to put your car down, its just i see these figures and wonder why my very very mild rb20 is up around the level of moderate rb25's

What makes you think its a VG30?

The R34 and VG30 turbo's are identical from the outside, the difference being the vg30 runs the small rb20 compressor wheel where as the r34 turbo runs a big motha comp wheel. There is a tip to identifying the sound of one... The VG30 spools quieter, more like a little buzz where as the RB20 and rb25 turbo's are louder and have more of a whooshing sucking sound, the reason for this is their comp cover inlet design.

Essentially from greatest power to less...

1. R34 GTT Turbo

2. R33 Turbo (Series 2 turbo's make same power just spool a little better)

3. VG30 Turbo

4. RB20 Turbo

And if your after maximum response with an ever so slight trade off in peak power... The R33 Series 2 turbo. Will still make up around 190rwkw on 14psi.

Don't be thinking if you throw a pfc in to yours you will make more peak power.. It won't, where you are at is where it will approximately stay. It will however pick up mid range, spool slightly earlier and be quicker simply because there is greater average power. How often are you at your peak power rpm compared to the rpm accelerating TO that peak power rpm. :sick:

EDIT: I see Steve is lurking around SAU quite a lot lately... Are you thinking about jumping back in to a Skyline Steve? hehe :sick:

ahh i get cha moonus, as for you post cubes, i was told by the previous owner it was a vg30, the turbo is deff not quite, it sounds like a realy high pitched whine, going by the boost spike/drop off, on my dyno run's im assuming the turbo has reached its efficiency level, therefore making good boost mid range but unable to flow it at high rpm, with same boost but larger injectors and a pfc i would assume with a deccent tune it would have to make 210-220? or am i dreaming?

ahh i get cha moonus, as for you post cubes, i was told by the previous owner it was a vg30, the turbo is deff not quite, it sounds like a realy high pitched whine, going by the boost spike/drop off, on my dyno run's im assuming the turbo has reached its efficiency level, therefore making good boost mid range but unable to flow it at high rpm, with same boost but larger injectors and a pfc i would assume with a deccent tune it would have to make 210-220? or am i dreaming?

I'd say it may just make that power... but at the end of the day it's still an RB20, so it's not really worth the trouble IN MY OPINION.

BTW, I made the exact same power (196rwkw) with an R33 series one turbo and chipped ECU, so your power output is pretty much the norm

went in this car yesterday!!! amazing difference the power fc has made all round...nice & smooth, barley any lag (compared to before) & pulls hard right through rev range...with traction & a bit of practice should easily get under a 13.5 all day long

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...