Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last time I looked they did...did a really good job of binding up on the dipper at Bathurst and spearing them off in to the kitty litter

Sports cars are a nice handling over all package.....the viper is a large powerful engine attached to a chassis built manily around 2 bits of railway track

LOL RAILS...

did u see the lotus come over the peak too fast hit the strip and bounced off a wall and into the service road..??? 900kg 1.8L toyota engine ftw...the donut king cup thingo..

was a good race.. EVOS wer crazy.. and did u see the FD3S behind everything..?

FD3S are a sports car.. good overall package.. but they are kinda gutless.. like the RX8 bahaha... waste of engineering.

hi all,

im new to sau ive come over from the exa club as i had an exa now i have a skyline and am in desperate need of your help i have a r33 gtst series II 4 door auto yes i know its a friggin auto it sucks yadda yadda yadda anyways i got a bigger front mount a bigger turbo power fc and viper alarm system also window tint and pearled paint anyways i had a loose wastegate actuator and when i fixed it (as boost was coming on at like 5500rpm) it now gets full boost at 2000rpm the car is pinging like a bitch i cant afford to take it to a decent dyno and im looking for a stock ecu and decent boost controller to swap for it. i managed to get the car pinging not so much by self tuning as best i could but just want the stock computer and boost tap if anyone can help me out send me an email at [email protected] please cos im desperate to get my skyline working good btw i live in beenleigh but work at capalaba at bryan byrt ford >_< lol thanks guys.

The power fc needs to be modified to work on an auto car, you CANT run a power fc out of the box on an auto car. Yes it will work, no it won’t work right.

SydneyKid on these forums made a post in the tech sections explaining what needs to be changed to work, he runs one on his auto Stagea

The power fc needs to be modified to work on an auto car, you CANT run a power fc out of the box on an auto car. Yes it will work, no it won’t work right.

SydneyKid on these forums made a post in the tech sections explaining what needs to be changed to work, he runs one on his auto Stagea

hmm SK is smart.. hes a good bloke..

makes me wonder what he looks like..?? anyone got a picture of him im keen to see if he looks asian with white gray hair and long kung fu mostach

Power fc's dont run on auto cars...

This is true. I think his biggest problem will be with the Power FC.

My advice consist's of the following, seeing i owned a 4 door r33 auto at one stage.

1) Post in the WTB section of the SAU forums and let people know you need an R33 Series 2, Auto ECU.

2) Disconnect car battery and remove the Power FC ECU and hand controller (if it has one) and replace with your second hand r33 S2 Auto ECU.

3) If you already have a boost controller, i'd piss it off pretty quick and reconnect your boost lines into the stock boost solenoid to ensure either of the two items above arent causing the problem.

4) If the problem is still there and your running a stock ecu and boost solenoid, i would then locate another wastegate actuator and replace your current one. If your actuator is allowing your gate to open quickly, your turbo will spool around 8-12psi in an instant shot and give you a massive amount of boost spike.

However, you mentioned you had issues at 5,500rpm (Wastegate not opening soon enough), and now it spools to early (Power FC problem, Wastegate opening to early...Way to early...)

I'd seriously give the above a fair go.

Good luck. :rofl:

Chris

Edited by SunnyCoast

Welcome to the forum.

You said that you had a loose wastegate? how did you fix it? I'd be definitly pulling the power fc out like the others said as they obvously not suited for autos .If you cant pull the fc out for now take a few degrees out of the timing ( get one of your mechanics to do it, thats if you are desperate so it doesnt ping might, make the car not responsive). What fuel have you been putting into it ?Hopefully nothing under bp ultimate.I wouldnt be running any boost controller until your problem is fixed so get that wastgate sorted out or your chances of engine damage will be up there.

Good luck

Welcome to the forum.

You said that you had a loose wastegate? how did you fix it? I'd be definitly pulling the power fc out like the others said as they obvously not suited for autos .If you cant pull the fc out for now take a few degrees out of the timing ( get one of your mechanics to do it, thats if you are desperate so it doesnt ping might, make the car not responsive). What fuel have you been putting into it ?Hopefully nothing under bp ultimate.I wouldnt be running any boost controller until your problem is fixed so get that wastgate sorted out or your chances of engine damage will be up there.

Good luck

Ditto :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...