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Baysidebluebnr34

By Baysidebluebnr34,
in Queensland

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P1@Y
P1@Y

ahh yep???ive been out of the car scene for a while but just got me a 4door 33. i wouldnt mind doing a brizzy cruise if there is ever one on, im on the sunshine coast also

Captain Natro
Captain Natro

.... You forgot to add "last night in my dream" at the end of that sentence

Cadmoon
Cadmoon

Holy shit, Dave is alive.

Posted Images

BLiNKsTaR Proficient

BLiNKsTaR

Posted
Posted
How much does it cost? Where is the skid pan in gympie? Must say i do not head to gympie without a good reason and this will be it!

All the details in the link below:

http://www.sunshinecoastcruising.com/forum...f=11&t=2342

or for the super lazy ones:

Date: Sunday 11th November 2007.

Location: Roadcraft Skidpan, just south of Gympie.

Time: It starts at 8:30am with the drivers briefing and goes all day to around 3:30pm in the afternoon (Rain or Shine).

Cost: Cost of entry is $30.

Licence: Current Drivers Licence and AASA Clubman or CAMS S2 licence. AASA Licences can be bought on the day for $50.

How to enter:-

Contact club for entry form. If you are purchasing a licence on the day, leave the licence number blank. Fill that out and send it in with a cheque or money order of $30 made out to "Cooloola Car Club Inc."

Address:

Cooloola Car Club Inc.

PO Box 173

Gympie QLD 4570

Positions are limited to 50 cars so pre-entry is a must. In the last few motorkhanas there has been no spare positions on the day, so to avoid dissapointment you are advised to pre-enter.

Classes include 4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl, FWD, 4WD and Ladies - Trophies for 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each class.

You only need a road worthy and registered car. No helmet, fire proof gear, roll cage or extinguishers are required. You may also take 1 passanger with you for the ride on the stages.

Food and drink will be on sale throughout the day.

If you have a tarp or gazebo to put up please bring it as it get hot in the sun and we cant all fit under mine! If you don't like burning up your good tyres, probably bring along another set as well.

r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted (edited)

to keep the forum chugging along anyone seen this:

it looks awesome.

copied off dawn of the dead tho, with the little vampire girl running out, just like the zombi girl at the start of DOTD

and this is rofl

and this TURBO'D ferrari !!!!!!

Edited by r33cruiser
shnaped_second Mentor

shnaped_second

Posted
Posted
Hey,

I need some help trying to track down a set of front rotors for my ER34. Prefer DBA and hoping to get slotted...Def not drilled or cross drilled and slotted..

Please let me know if you can help out.

thanks

Whats wrong with your standard ones?

DBA's? lol try super cheap auto

sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted
Whats wrong with your standard ones?

DBA's? lol try super cheap auto

Standard rotors are warped and cannot be machined due to the high risk of the rotors cracking when heating up.

I require new rotors and have decided to buy DBA rotors as they come within my price range. I dont see how DBA's can be LoL'd at....They are at least twice as reliable as the genuine rotors...So any upgrade above stock is well worth it...

Cruiser - Thanks for the help.

R334door Experienced

R334door

Posted
Posted (edited)
Standard rotors are warped and cannot be machined due to the high risk of the rotors cracking when heating up.

I require new rotors and have decided to buy DBA rotors as they come within my price range. I dont see how DBA's can be LoL'd at....They are at least twice as reliable as the genuine rotors...So any upgrade above stock is well worth it...

Cruiser - Thanks for the help.

i have a few contacts for these as i use to have them on my car.I would reconmend the "kangaroo paw" style of rotor from dba.

They where the sport rotor which where slotted .These types of rotor have a different heat range so once they were in the range worked better,which is noticable.Let me know if you want prices and i'll see what i can do for you.Also im not sure if the R34 are the same but in the R33 they had two different sizes in thickness so you might have to check that on your existing rotors before you order otherwise they might not suit your caliper.

Hope this helps.

Edited by R334door
sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted
also i'll have to give the scanner a miss chris, my budget doesnt stretch that far this week.

Thanks for the help with the rotors...got some lined up with some mates from autobarn. :whistling:

I can hold on to the scanner for you if you want...will part with it for $140 at the lowest for ya.

Chris

r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted (edited)

oi cd. i reckon u could get away with ur standard brakes the way they are atm. just upgrade the pads, and add a few air ducts in there. also properly bedd the brakes in aka BEDDING. also a brake booster stopper is worth a gander.

found out the shudders u feel when braking aren't the disks (90%of the time unless theyre ancient), its from inpropper bedding in of the brake pads. residue is producing uneven patches on the disk.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

keep in mind champ, slotted/drilled rotors, dont cool the brakes, only allow gass to escape.

if u take off the rear protector plate, and have a few guides it will be sweet.

unless ur rotors are seriously fkd..........................buy some R35 rotors BWAAAAAHAAAAAA

Edited by r33cruiser
sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted
oi cd. i reckon u could get away with ur standard brakes the way they are atm. just upgrade the pads, and add a few air ducts in there. also properly bedd the brakes in aka BEDDING. also a brake booster stopper is worth a gander.

found out the shudders u feel when braking aren't the disks (90%of the time unless theyre ancient), its from inpropper bedding in of the brake pads. residue is producing uneven patches on the disk.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

keep in mind champ, slotted/drilled rotors, dont cool the brakes, only allow gass to escape.

if u take off the rear protector plate, and have a few guides it will be sweet.

unless ur rotors are seriously fkd..........................buy some R35 rotors BWAAAAAHAAAAAA

Thanks for the help.

Rotors are ancient...10 + Years. Brakes didnt need to be bed in as they dont require them on the high end brake pads you buy.

Nah, just going to get slotted all round. Ordering them on Tues... Sweet. Improve breaking power by heaps.

Cheers.

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