Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've decided to put my GTR up for sale as I need funds for some personal projects I am doing. This is my personal car and has been for the past 8-10 months. It was a daily driver for the first few months, however has now become a weekend car. I have had it regularly serviced, and full utmost care has been given to her.

All tests are welcome, I am confident the first to see will be very happy. It is at a very good price, considering the car was stock, all mods have been done in Australia.

Engine is very healthy, I have ran an 11.98 quarter mile pass.

Details are:

1995 Nissan Skyline GTR

Rare Black Colour

83,000 kms

Racepace Cam Gear

Apexi Power FC + Hand Controller

Rays Volks F-Zero Challenge (18x10jj)

DBA4000 Slotted Front Discs

Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads

Extreme Extra Heavy Duty Spring Button Clutch

Whiteline Castor Adjustable Bushes

Whiteline Camber Adjustable Bushes

HKS Pod Filters

Fujitsubo Twin Pipe Cat Back Exhaust

Custom Front Lower Lip

Alpine MD/CD Player

Clear Indicators

As mentioned the car is in Immaculate Condition. Timing belt and spark plugs changed, all fluids (Engine, Gearbox, Front and Rear Diff, Brake) changed - all carried out by Racepace Motorsport. 256rwkw@14psi.

Suspension work carried out by Centreline Suspension.

More pics can be seen here: http://allblitz.com.au/cars/004_nskylinegtr95black.html

GDZ1LA plates not included.

$27,000 Rock bottom price, no offers, no swaps, no nearest offers - firm price - needs to go, thats bloody cheap !!!

Strictly no test pilots, I will take interested parties for a test drive, however a test drive can be possible after a deposit is taken.

Location - Melbourne

post-14128-1162506562.jpg

post-14128-1162506619.jpg

post-14128-1162506685.jpg

post-14128-1162506738.jpg

post-14128-1162506773.jpg

post-14128-1162506915.jpg

post-14128-1162507244.jpg

Car currently has R34 GTR Rims on it as seen on the white R34 on my signature. Buyer can choose to purchase with the 34GTR wheels or the Volks F-Zero Challenge's.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
nah but im being serious ..

Dude tell me ur taking the pissss????

If u read through the thread properly it says no offers now if u had offered me 20k id give u my rims and bodykit......

Sorry allblitz for hijacking ur thread but this guy is fullllll offf it

Edited by slygtr
  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...