Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all I just have a couple of Q's I need answered...

Someone I know is looking to buy a RB25DET Neo from an import place which includes engine, turbo, loom etc for $4900 it supposedly has 40,000km's on it but I have told him he had better do a leak down/compression test on it before handing over any money... does this sound like an ok price for the package or should he be able to get a half cut for this much???

also will a standard R33 exhaust system from a GTS-T bolt up to the NEO turbo or are they different studs or something ??? (n00b question I know)

Cheers Leigh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141662-information-about-rb25det-neo/
Share on other sites

Sounds like an ok price, definately do the tests on it though (it may be hard to get it to operating temperature though).

As for the exhaust, I believe the Neo has a larger exhaust housing on it so I dont think the exhaust will fit.

While your on the topic...what is the difference between the NEO compared to the RB25DET?? I've actually been trying to find this out for the past few days.

EDIT: typo

Edited by R3sp3ct

The differences that I've heard of are:

- The crank angle sensor is different to an R33 one. An R33 one has a metal cover. The Neo one has a matt black plastic cover. If you need to see what it looks like try finding a picture of either a Neo or an R34 RB26DETT, they both have the same CAS cover.

- The plenum is a tad smaller than an R33 one and has a slightly squarer shape (for lack of a better description)- Apparently for better bottom end power

- The crossover pipe has a secondary throttle body which is about 2-3 inches before the main throttle body on the plenum, for the traction control.

- Neos have smaller top feed injectors, as opposed to R33 side feed injectors. 340cc vs 370cc or something.

- The R33 coil pack covers have that "NISSAN 2500 TWIN CAM 24 VALVE" badge on them on top of cylinder #2 roughly. The R34 ones have nothing on the coil cover at all due to the plastic engine cover and the intake gear almost completely obscuring the coil pack and cam covers.

- The vaccum hosing and coolant bleed points are in rather different spots on the Neo intake. (At the back of the inlet manifold)

- There is an igniter in each ignition coil as opposed to the other RB motors which has a single igniter at the back of the motor for all the coil packs

- The turbo has a nylon composite compressor wheel and what's supposed to be the same as a VG30 exhaust housing

- Solid lifters a la RB26 (mine certainly has a different sounding top end noise)

- RB26 conrods (either the same or similar)

- They don't have variable cam timing on the exhaust but the variation on the intake is meant to be different to the R33 one. The R33 one is supposed to be some kind of on/off arrangement and the R34 one is some kind of intermittent/available on demand kind of thing

- The ECU has a very different pinout

Anyways that's what comes to mind, I'm no expert so a lot of that might be incorrect

Oh, and the exhaust housing.... mine has an R33 dump pipe on it :yucky: The original dump pipe was on the motor when we got it and it looked exactly the same as an R33 one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...