Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres there story.

I tried to install my pioneer cd deck into my R32 GTS-t.

Me and a friend have done many stereo installations before.

When we first installed it, we blew a fuse that controlled the dashlights/tail lights.

Thats ok, we found the culprit wire(s) and sorted that out. No more fuses blew.

From then when I turned my car off, the doors would lock and when I clicked the button on the immobiliser, it would unlock and re-lock again.

So we ripped the whole deck out and detached everything from the wires. So now there is no wires connected to anything. When i turn my car off, it unlocks the doors. So i will hop out, lock the doors and go. Now when i return to my car, the immobiliser is armed, i click the button and it will unlock the doors and then lock straight away. The only way to get in, is to use the key.

When the immobiliser is not armhated, the doors will lock fine.

I have spent many many late nights and very many hours trying to solve this problem. We went through and pulled apart all the relays and tested them. We also swapped over the immobiliser with a friend (same type) and the problem was still there.

So our guess is, there is some wire(s) that were connected to the back of the stereo that either need to get power or need to be ground.

Another point is when you click the immobiliser button, it doesn't flash the parkers/tail lights like it use too.

Can anyone provide any help on this?

I have gone through most of the wiring and i know what most of the stereo wires do. However there are still wires there that we don't know the exact purpose for.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, thats an option.

But those guys are ****ING DODGY!! and i mean very dodgy.

When we were going through my car, we found wires spliced and left like that. Things butchered here and there.

Guy i work with decided to get them to do his tint.

They ripped the back shelf out, and wrecked all the terminals. Also broke the shelf. At first they claimed they never touched the shelf, then they said, they just pulled it forward a little.

They're not someone i would like to trust or do business with.

Go through all the fuse's with a test light and ensure that they are all ok, next check that all earth wires to the alarm module are grounded

(HINT: some alarm installers use the radio as a ground)

some alarms use a seperate module for the door locks check this aswell.

When i fitted my alarm I used the wires going to the hazard switch did you plug it back in? as mine would not flash if the switch was not pluged in.

Thats all I can think of for now check all of the above and let us know how u went.

if u have more info that would help me tell u what to look 4!

Thanks for the offer rob, but i'm in WA :D

DAMQIK, Done just about all the checks you can think of.

I though i posted everything in the first post, please let me know what i missed out.

It doesn't have an alarm. Factory central locking and a Cyclops paralyser immobiliser.

I have a mate who was an auto elec for a few years, i'm trying to get him to have a look, but hes just been busy.

Soon as i sort the prob out, everyone will know!!

Thankyou everyone for your imput.

Ok so you checked the fuses under the dash? under the black cover under the bonnet & next to the battery? (there are 3 Fuse boxes in a r33)

PM me your email address and I will send the wireing diag 4 jpg pictures.

Thou I feel your prob is bad earth maybe run a new wire from earth to the module and the same for power+ if you have not yet tryed this.

is your cig lighter getting power?

Ok, I feel like a dick.

All along i knew the problem was easy, but just kept missing it. Mainly because each time we were working on it, it was between the hours of 10pm-3am.

There is a relay down in the kick panel with a "door lock timer" module, somebody has taken a wire off that relay and put it back on the wrong terminal, plus the immobiliser had a blown fuse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...