Jump to content
SAU Community

little rant (zoom)

fatz

By fatz,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

that sounds ok - but technique is better like this

brake in high gear down toward where you then do your gear changes down just before accelerating in correct gear - skipping gears down is ok then (you could skip from 5th to 2nd so long as you come onto 2nd under acceleration.

That is so long as you let out the clutch in low gear at the correct speed with the accelerator down you can avoid tensioning your pistons.

The reason for braking in a high gear with the gear engaged is to get the benefit of vacumme assist braking. So doing your change down to 2nd from 5th 'after' braking makes sense if you are trying to take advantage of this.

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

but the point is don't brake with your foot on the clutch!

and remember to accelerate hard when you let the clutch connect into that 2nd gear at a road speed that is correct to give you acceleration in 2nd gear.

Downshifting has nothing to do with slowing the cars drivetrain. more like keeping it sped up.

NismoR34 Grand Master

NismoR34

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by dAVE

yeh - i got lost after the first few posts...

so was the article in zoom correct or not?.. im assuming not?

yeah maybe - depends how you look at it / read it I guess :)

Originally posted by fatz

i dont know if this is the same guy but  on one of the HPI videos there is a few "hot laps" in a r34 gtt around wakefield...  

i will find out the vid number so everyone can have a cringe at the driving displayed

pete

So is it HPIv5 or HPv6 ?

  • 2 weeks later...
S4PLAY Contributor

S4PLAY

Posted
Posted

Heel and toe is the gospel of race car drivers.... Mark Skaife is a good friend of mine and uses heel and toe in every gear change. Yes he may go 6th to 2nd, but he does blip the throttle to get it in gear.

Martin, when i last drove a V8 supercar, it doesn't go in gear without heel and toe, i'm sorry most road cars make this very easy by using syncros, heel and toe is better for a car than just cruising into a corner, sticking it in gear and reefing the clutch out into a nice compression lockup. Pete is right by saying whoever drove the 34 @ wakefield seriously needs some training in the heel and toe area as it was obvious that he had major compression lockup in a lot of corners.

And if you've driven any performance cars lately, they prefer to be in gear under brakes, as it makes the car a lot more stable.

If you care to argue, please call any race driver.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...