Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

25's are double synchro just like the 26, both boxes use the same synchro's, bearings, rings, etc

internally the only visual difference i saw was the input/main shaft looks a little different, 26 is thicker in some places, i've been told that the gears are the same as well...

there may be other little differences but basically the same,

25 boxes are very rare these days, drifter love em, so you could probably buy a 26 box and change to internals over to the busted 25 box, was considering this recently but decided against it, by part numbers most parts are the same but making parts fit is a different story...

has any1 tried this? ive heard a few but no one willing to share secrets

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2683337
Share on other sites

There are plenty of boxes around.

Its just people arent prepared to pay the asking price for em :wave:

But GTR boxes go for almost the same as RB25 boxes anyhow. Usually only $100-$150 in it

about a month or 2 ago when i was searching....

Sydney wreckers were asking $2000, Brisbane $1500... no stock in both states!!!

found a R33 GTR box in Brisbane was $1000... with warranty!!!

also found a lot of ppl trying to pass rb20det boxes and rb25de boxes off as r33 turbo boxes so be careful

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2687593
Share on other sites

The z32 vg30 boxes are the same also..i put one on my rb30det..just got the front (bell) section off a broken rb26 box and bolted it on.rear extension housing is a bit shorter but a rb25 one will go on if you want,i didnt bother im just using the vg30 one.Im making over 500rwhp and havnt had a problem.EKW in melb sell vg30 boxes for $550.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2703152
Share on other sites

yeah exactly the same box..I've run full slicks on mine and launched it pretty hard and ive never had a problem.Admittedly ther would be a bit less stress on it because its in a fairly light 240z but i cant see it breaking..Same part code as rb25/26 boxes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2703486
Share on other sites

They had a few at the time but that was over 6 months ago..not sure what year,they are all the same as long as its from a z32.Also i got one out of a na because they are both the same and i figured the the turbo ones would have copped more of a hard time than the na.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2704046
Share on other sites

think i remember seeing brand new 25 boxes for 3500.. id much rather buy new than pay 2grand for a 2nd hand one that is 'supposedly' good condition!

also i have a 25 box with GTR internals but i didnt do the swap myself so i dont know if there are any complications regarding swapping. Seeing as the OS cross mission set drops straight into either box, id say it would be straightforward?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143333-rb26rb25/#findComment-2717706
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...