Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive notice in the last couple of hotter months, my car in traffic (heavy peak hour), when the temperatures in excess of 34, all of a sudden starts idling like a rotten piece of crap (heaps low idle like 400RPM) and taking off is rediculously doughy and sluggish. Then ill get home lift the hood check all the cooler pipes etc and they will be rediculously hot (as to be expected tho) and the heat shield will be "tinging" (cooling metal) to all buggery. Im just wondering if anyone else gets this, or what i should do to help this, or if turning the aircon on to get some additional airflow in will help ( i kno this helps in other cars as it switches on the aircon fan which draws cooler air in to the engine bay).

Cheers, David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/
Share on other sites

yeah my R34 doesn't like it much either .... but is fine as long as the car is moving. But still, I am going to take off the stock crank fan, and put in a heavy duty thermo fan. I am also going to rig up some sort of fan on the air conditioner radiator/compressor. When my car gets too hot while idling, the air conditioner actually turns off (hot air comes out) - I assume due to some over-temp safety mechanism. If I get out and pour some water on the radiator and air conditioner condenser, the air conditioner fires straight back up and works a treat for a while - the car seems to run better for a while too. I am also going to rig up a big water misted to spray the radiator for really hot days like I had on my S15.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2691826
Share on other sites

cool, thanks Joel. Yeah I am thinking I will grab a JustJap alloy radiator, Davies Craig 20" thermo fan, bigger condenser fan, Davies Craig trans cooler (already have, just have to fit), and oil cooler (already have, just have to fit) then I will be all set for summer :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2692304
Share on other sites

I bought my 14" thermo from atracing on ebay.

From memory it was ~$80.

The fan wasn't a straight blade it was a curved blade.

Looks identical to this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIGH-PERFORMANCE-14...1QQcmdZViewItem

What ever you get be sure its a curved blade fan, they push a lot more air and they are quiet.

Those justjap alloy rads are a bargain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2692402
Share on other sites

cool, thanks Joel. Yeah I am thinking I will grab a JustJap alloy radiator, Davies Craig 20" thermo fan, bigger condenser fan, Davies Craig trans cooler (already have, just have to fit), and oil cooler (already have, just have to fit) then I will be all set for summer :)

dont forget coolant flush if you havent already, car will love you for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2692661
Share on other sites

put the heater on, that helps if u can put up with the extra heat in the cabin. it draws the heat from the cooling system so in theory it draws heat from the engine which should make it run slightly cooler.

with my car, heat naturally goes into side the cabin where the foot area is. and i press the recirculating air button so that it blocks it from coming in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2692667
Share on other sites

what about the affects of different temp on boosting.

I'm only mentioning this because I have heard that thick/thinner air accompanied by the factor of its temp can potentially damage or over power a car that is not set up correctly or doesnt have the appropriate management systems in place.

Edited by SAZilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2693681
Share on other sites

MMM, i would be worried bout anything else, but the idle was casuing the only real concern for me. Ive just set up a new CAI for the 32 hopefully to lower the intake temps marginally, guess we'll see. So no one has had the idle problem tho??!

And really the only solution is to get a bigger thermo fan or the like?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2694091
Share on other sites

nightcrawler = used to have the pewter s15?

if so, this is andy, i had the R33 GTR (midnight blue), with Matt's 33 gts-t

i see u're still on the forum

we havent been on here for like 4yrs now..time just flew

howz the family?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2695138
Share on other sites

ahh how you doing mate? Yes it is me, and I still have the pewter S15 (want to buy it? lol) .... yep things are good - the usual : work hard, play hard - we have just returned from a week in Singapore, I spent a week in New Zealand skiing in August, and we spent a month in the USA last September. Work is good, but busy and no kids on the horizon just yet (thank goodness) .... how about yourself? Did you sell the GTR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2695152
Share on other sites

if so, this is andy, i had the R33 GTR (midnight blue), with Matt's 33 gts-t

had? what happened to it and what your cruising around in now?

i remember last seeing you (bout 3 yrs now @ bp) with a female and your car had twin pipes then you dissappeared.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144094-hot-weather/#findComment-2695353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...