Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I searched 'attessa' and looked through nearly every thread there but none was close to my prob.

On the R32GTR last night the 4WD light comes on only after the car has been driven (not hard) for approx 30mins and there is no torque to the front wheels. The clutch was changed a few months ago.

Just found out that i can check for fault code in the boot and will have a go tonite. Is this always flashing? ...or do i need to bridge some pins?

I thought it may be the fluid level, but if this was the case the light would be on constantly no? :)

Can anyone provide any other tips or possible causes of the problem? ...i hope it isnt anything major :no:

Much appreciated

:(

I would check your fluid level as mine was low and the 4wd light would come on for no reason after id been driving a while. When it happened i would turn the car off then back on and it would turn off, but when i toped up the fluid it seems to have fixed it tho it has done it once since and i just figured it must have been maybe a air bubble in the line. Not sure if this helps :( If you find the prob and its something else can you let me know in case iv just been lucky!!

Cheers

Ok, i just checked the fluid level in its waaayy past the Full mark!!! Is that such a bad thing tho? Its only in the bottle yer?

Also checked the flashing light under that control box thingo and it flashed 18 times before pausing and reapeting again.....What does that mean?

hi mate,

a) the attesa ecu is not always flashing. it's only flashing if one or more problems exist. you must make sure it's only flashing one number, so you'll have to count the flashes twice.

b) if the clutch was changed, there could be a bubble in the attesa feed unit. this thread in the diy section shows you how to bleed and change the fluid.

c) code 18 is "ETS pressure switch or circuit". see attached image for the flowchart showing you how to diagnose and repair. hope you can read it ok.

let us know how you get on.

sig.

post-516-1164331042.jpg

Edited by sigsputnik

Hey all,

Ive got a simillar problem with my R32 GTR (4wd ECU flashes 1 flash per second for 18 seconds, and repeats), but the 4wd light comes on on startup and will normally go away after re starting. I'm still investigating, will look at ETS pressure switch.

Cheers, Sandy

Hey all,

Ive got a simillar problem with my R32 GTR (4wd ECU flashes 1 flash per second for 18 seconds, and repeats), but the 4wd light comes on on startup and will normally go away after re starting. I'm still investigating, will look at ETS pressure switch.

Cheers, Sandy

Let us know how you go Sandyb

GTR_STEALTH and sandyb, did you have a look at the flowchart? you need to examine the hydraulic unit with a multimeter to check for current. see the attached image for the hydraulic unit terminals.

quicksta, open your bother's boot and have a look at the attesa ecu - it will probably be flashing. count the number of flashes (carefully) and report back. there are at least half a dozen possible problems.

post-516-1164589306.jpg

ok ok, now this is getting a bit embarrasing for me -where do i find that harness? On the driver side kickpanel?

...sorry, but locating where everything is exactly is still new to me; and having no manual watsoever doesnt help:p

My brothers having the same problem with his 33 gtr except the 4wd and ABS light come on and off simultaneously. Whats goin on?

I had a similar problem in R33 GTR and mine turned out to be the altinator was overcharging the battery and upsetting the control signal voltages to 4WD and airbag. The battery light didn't come on thou, cause it only gets flagged on a low voltage or underchage. Was an intermittant problem in mine and the only thing that gave it away was when I saw the headlights go from dull to bright while driving at night.

Removed altinator and sent away for rebuild, $80 fixed.

Also you guys should try borrowing some new rims and tyres off someone. Make sure they are the same all round and go for a spin. Make sure it isn't a tyre wear issue.

Just some suggestions.

i know its for a R32 GTR

but im sure its better than nothing or maybe not if R33 is that different...dunno

Anyway

R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL (for those that do a search)

btw sigsputnik where did you find the error code?

RellikZephyr

Also you guys should try borrowing some new rims and tyres off someone. Make sure they are the same all round and go for a spin. Make sure it isn't a tyre wear issue.

Just some suggestions.

I've thought about trying new tyres/rims but the difference in tread shouldn't stop the torque to the front altogether should it!?

Cheers for the GTR manual, i'll definately be going over that with a fine tooth comb tonite :ninja:

i'm pretty sure you can find a good pic of the ETS hydraulic unit in Deren's post here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2682991

You can find the attesa error codes on page CH67 of the service manual (if it's the same manual).

you must have the same size rims on the gtr or attesa will throw a fault - but i don't think it will throw a code 18 (more like codes 1-4).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...