Jump to content
SAU Community

How I Made A Hi - Lo Boost Swich (easy And Cheap)

RB SANDY

By RB SANDY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB SANDY Rising Star

RB SANDY

Posted
Posted (edited)

I used a lpg gas solenoid to cut off the air flow to the wastegate and it works good you can change from std boost to hi from a switch in the drivers seat. I have not tried changing it from hi to low under full load.

(look at the attachment)

post-28604-1164448540.gif

Edited by RB SANDY
RB SANDY Rising Star

RB SANDY

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Edited by RB SANDY
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Mine was fine changing it at wot.

Regarding the more low end power.. The reason it probably feels that way is because the boost doesn't snap on as hard giving it an increased laggier feeling.

Other than that.. unless its leaning out in the low end it won't be making less low end power.

It really is silly pushing boost up unless you know for certain you have dropped a 'new' fuel pump in it. My std fuel pump died at ~160rwkw.

If its feeling gutless in the low end on high boost throw it on the dyno and see whats up with it.

RB SANDY Rising Star

RB SANDY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

because my car has a rb25 in it I changed the fuel pump to a r33 one that had done 70,000k on it so i dont think its that it would be r&r mode the hi boost is at 11.5 psi but its not all that bad.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

67,000km's and my pump couldn't hold more than 160rwkw.

It was a genuine 67,000km's, the car was like bran spanking new.

This was 5years ago. So that would have made the car ~9years old.

So similar now to using a fuel pump from a 1997 R33. :D

Have the afr's checked with a cheap $30 power run.

  • 2 weeks later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i did the dual stage hack in my r33 then got a real boost controller

theres a big thread in the tutorial on the r33 dual stage hack

why not just run the highest boost you can all the time?

thats why i moved to a real controlller, just didnt see the need for a dual stage system. but good on u for trying something and writing it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...