Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have just started to install my avc-r boost controller and have found the vehicle specific wiring diagram obtained from the official apexi site does not match that of my ECU. My car is a 1995 series1 gts25t.

Below is the picture of the plug and where I was going to splice the wires at. (Note no rpm signal pin where it supposed to be)

pinout1.jpg

Does anyone know what deal with this is or where the actual rpm pin is?

Also, have I got it upside down or the wrong diagram???

And here is the pin out diagram provided by apexi.

clip_image002.jpg

Any help much appreciated, as I'm baffled.

Edited by BAMR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144789-avc-r-wiring-problems/
Share on other sites

i just installed mine 2 days ago, that is the correct diagram and mine works . i highly suggest u got the the injection signal rather than the rpm since the avcr cant "self learn" the boost setting to the specific injection duty. (if u are setting it urself and not getting it tuned)

if u are getting it tuned let the tuner set it to ur revs, my mate told me he knows a guy who blew his engine because of that.

im gunna write up a DIY since no one here has done it for the avc-r. so it will be up soon

heres a diagram that would really help. u can double check if ur wiring is backwards by checking the blanks.

the diagram shows the male(pins) on the ecu. so make sure u dont get them mixed up.

like i say follow this diagram, the blanks will clearly show u which wires the the right ones. gluck dude and make sure the wires are in good contact.

post-17292-1164475438.jpg

no probs i was shitty myself too when i did it LOL.

but when i followed the connectors according to blanks i relise they are the male connectors.

have fun. ps u going for injector signal or rpm. i got stock turbo too so let me know how much duty cycle u running.

this is the way i set up mine.

OFF-stock boost (this way u actually have 2 boost settings)

A- .65 with 35% duty cycle (street)

B- .80 with 45% DC (dont want to hurt my baby).....this is enough fun for now.

It's now wired in, sh1t's rock'n an roll'n. I just went with the rpm signal as I'll have the pfc to monitor injector duty.

For now I'll be running a big 10% DC just to stablize the boost curve ie. not solely relying on wastegate (probably bump it up to 9psi) Untill I get the rest of mods on and a proper tune i'm not gunna bother running anymore boost.

ahhah pussy! ;)

i ran .85 as soon as i test drove it LOL, this is with my stock cooler.LOL

just finished putting on dump/front, catch can, r34 cooler,water spray for cooler and redo my boost gauge to pro standards. just need an exhaust place to weld up my hi flow and ill feel safe running .8bar (12psi)

just a quick question me that me and a mate had diff on. the smaller the duty cycle the faster it boost? or the higher it is the more it boost?

Edited by philta
ahhah pussy! :D

i ran .85 as soon as i test drove it LOL, this is with my stock cooler.LOL

just finished putting on dump/front, catch can, r34 cooler,water spray for cooler and redo my boost gauge to pro standards. just need an exhaust place to weld up my hi flow and ill feel safe running .8bar (12psi)

just a quick question me that me and a mate had diff on. the smaller the duty cycle the faster it boost? or the higher it is the more it boost?

Bahaha...

I couldn't resist either, nice cool night minimal traffic. Boosted it up to .8bar no troubles. Looks friggin cool at night.

Na, the duty cycle is purely to do with boost control by controlling the duration the solenoid is open and bleeding off air. It has no effect on the rate of spooling, the higher the DC the more air is getting bleed off ie. tricking the wastegate actuator into running more boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...