Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, i have posted a few questions in regards to this before but need some more advice, there is a very limited knowledge of this stuff in the NT.

Firstly Car Mods

Rebuilt Motor (In Progress) RB25DET

Arias Forged Pistons

Eagle Rods

Cometic Metal Head Gasket

Tomei 256 Poncams

Tomei Cam Gear

Greddy Inlet Plenum

Garrett GT30R Turbo

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Nismo Adjustable Fuel Reg

Apexi Power FC

Now we are looking for 300+rwkw

The car currently has the stock ECU etc.

(1) Will it be safe to bolt everything in once the motor goes back in, like injectors, fuel pump, power fc etc & run it around on the base map on the power FC to run in the motor for the first 1000km. The reason i ask is i have spoken to two local import mechanics up here, one said bolt on the new turbo & run in the motor on the stock computer, the other said the stock computer will shit itself with the cams.

(2) How strong is the R33 GTS-t running gear, ie gearbox, tailshaft, diff, will it handle 300+rwkw.

(3) I have seen alot of skylines with this power running multiple fuel pumps & surge tanks etc, but i have been told the 040 will be fine, is that correct.

(4) Anyone know if i have overlooked something.

with regards to running it it, it should be fine for only 1000km untuned.... you only have to bed the rings in etc but your cold start and running will probably be shyte. Should just run it in on the dyno

Will the Bosch 040 be sufficent for 300 to 320rwkw, i kind of want to do everything at once and never touch the biatch again lol :mellow:

from my experiance this method gives the best result.

100 kays of light duty reving. (traffic but not much ideling)

drop oil. and filter

500 kays of "normal driving" on low boost with shit oil.

drop oil and filter

next 500 kays of normal driving with a resonable oil of the same viscosity as what you want to run. on moderate boost. say 1 bar.

so after 1000 kays its readdy to rev and be given a hard time. dont drop the oil for 2000 kays.

after that its gonna be bedded in nicly. and not use oil or blow smoke or have heaps of blowby (depends what clearances your running)

at no time should you limmit revs to a pathetic 4k. if you do that you run the risk of scratching the bores one you rev it up.

what happens is as the rings bed in a very small lip is formed at the top and bottom of where they run.

and as you rev it the rods stretch a tiny amount. efectivly making the pistons travel further up and down.

if its only used to 4k for 1000kms and then give it a bootfull the rings will get dammaged.

so after the first 100 kms slowly bring the revs up to your max revs over a period of around 150kms. once yove eased it in to that you need to just drive it normaly and give it some moderatly loaded revving. like back to second to overtake etc etc.

for a referance our race civic motor we put it together and installed it. started it up,bled the coolant and went straight to the dyno.

after 10 mins it was hitting 9 grand without issue. doesnt use oil,no blowby and doesnt turn the oil black in 1 race lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...