Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have put a RB20 silvertop into my R31.

I have bought a consult cable, one of the blitz ones.

I have installed everything, and directly wired it into the ecu wires.

But my software isn't picking the ECU up.

Is there anything special i have to do to get it working?

Also does anyone know what voltages are supose to be on the TX, RX, and CLK cables?

I am getting an error can't open my com port as well.

I am thinking this might be the problem.

But if anyone could give me the voltage readings, it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for any help

Is this right?

Black = Ground

Blue = CLK

White = RX

Yellow = TX

Red = 12V

Edited by shaunmlawry
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145534-need-help-with-rb20-consult-cable/
Share on other sites

all the drivers are installed, and windows picks up the cable fine.

Its just all the programs that arn't picking up the ECU, only the free Conzult software says can't open port, the others try and find the ECU but can't

Is there any manual way of testing the consult cable?

all the drivers are installed, and windows picks up the cable fine.

Its just all the programs that arn't picking up the ECU, only the free Conzult software says can't open port, the others try and find the ECU but can't

Is there any manual way of testing the consult cable?

Did you connect RX to RX and TX to TX?

If so try swapping the RX and TX wires. For a serial connection you always connect RX on one connection to TX on the other, and vice versa.

are u using a true serial port or a usb dongle converted one?

try a real serial port, it may work better

Tried changing the TX and RX wires, still said can't find ECU.

The cable is a USB one, no serial port.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, this has me stumped

TX has about 10v

RX has .4v

And CLK has around 2.4V

Can someone with a USB cable maybe measure the voltage readings that they are getting on the cables in the USB plug just before they go into the computer, this should tell me if my cable is working properly.

Tomorrow i am gonna get a mates computer and see if it works on it, it might just be my laptop

Thanks again

Edited by shaunmlawry

CLK is correct (~5V @ 50% dutycycle = 2.5v)

transmit from ECU (ie, TX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->5v (somewhere in between) when connected

receive from ECU (RX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->12v roughly, depending on whether pc is transmitting or not.

what is ur ECU serial number? (23710-xxxxx). early R32 ecu's (until ~9/89) didnt have consult capabilities.

Edited by NewKleer
CLK is correct (~5V @ 50% dutycycle = 2.5v)

transmit from ECU (ie, TX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->5v (somewhere in between) when connected

receive from ECU (RX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->12v roughly, depending on whether pc is transmitting or not.

what is ur ECU serial number? (23710-xxxxx). early R32 ecu's (until ~9/89) didnt have consult capabilities.

23710-73L10

I tried the cable with another computer and it still wouldn't pick up my ECU

Thats probably the problem, my ECU doesn't support it

Thanks for the help

ur ecu is from an a31 cefiro - they dont support consult.

youll need an r32 ecu. dont get any of these (i think the rest should be ok):

23710-04U00

23710-04U10

23710-04U11

thats on assumption a31 motor can work with r32 without any changes, if u have an a31 motor

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...