Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

S2 R33 GTS25t

So ive done a few basic mods:

FMIC, boost controller, fuel pump, pod filter.

Ran mint after being tuned, no worries at all, reasonable power.

Running 10psi boost, stable & good.

Then i went & did the exhaust (yes i know i should have done it first, had cat back before, did front pipe & dump pipe (with seperated wastegate pipe) this time).

Now its boosting to almost 1bar, about 13-13.5psi i think.

Tested wastegate, its holding boost/vacuum fine, opens at about 7psi, gradually opening wider until its open fully at 13psi.

Hooked wastegate directly to manifold vacuum, no boost controller in the loop, boosts faster/higher than with boost controller.

My intercooler piping doesnt have the nipple to plug the wastegate line into.

Also, it worked fine plugged into the manifold before i redid the exhaust, so i dont think thats the major issue at the moment.

This is on a stock turbo/ECU/wastegate/bov.

Now ive been told a few different things in the last couple of days, ive been told that

1) sweet as, everything can handle that boost fine, but with no boost controller, wastegate hooked to vacuum, should boost to about 7-9psi (which it doesnt).

2) i need to get the boost lower so the turbo doesnt fly to bits - possibly solved by external wastegate, or a restrictor after the dump pipe (which completely defeats the purpose of putting it in in the first place).

Now, heres where i need the help. Any ideas what the problem could actually be? And what i need to do to fix it?

If i need a new ECU, thats ok, but i dont want to get one only to find out i need an external wastegate/new exhaust/whatever as well.

I regapped the plugs (to about .78), took it for a drive & managed to blow an intercooler pipe off.

put that back on, and now it doesnt boost as high, so maybe that was the problem all along. will have to do some more testing later.

altho i always thought that a big airleak like a blown IC hose would lead to loss off boost, not increased boost. its a bit weird.

also noticed the timing is dropping RIGHT back (like to about 8deg) when under heavy boost (but only boosts to about 0.7bar now).

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145708-r33-boost-problems/
Share on other sites

no ideas anyone?

this is driving me crazy, meant to be going to a dyno day in a couple of weeks, but doesnt look like ill be able to go atm >_<

i found a wastegate calculator on here somewhere that says i should be running a 38mm wastegate.

anyone able to tell me what size the factory gate is?

i'd check that the wastegate isn't slightly grabbing on the dump pipe which is making it sticky and open later.

also i'd borrow someone elses gauge to make sure that your gauge isn't faulty.

and also get a nipple put into the cooler piping.

I have thesame issies on my car now. I got a gizzmo to try and fix the issues, as i had only a bleed valve before, but it seams there is another problem.

read this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=146323

When i get any info i'll help you out

ive used my boost gauge + both vacuum gauges at work, they all read the same.

ill have to get a nipple put on the piping at some stage soon i think.

and re the wastegate opening, when i use the pressure gauge, it opens at about 7psi, so pretty sure its not grabbing, but might pull off the exhaust & have a go at the divider with the die grinder

Well i took my car in to have a look see into the problem. AND it the stock wastgate. What happens with my car is that at low rpm the car boost to 7psi and at high rpm it works its way up to 10.6 psi. With the gate fully open, i get thesame, this means the gate is too small.

SO i need to take the rear housing off and machine it. YEEHHHAAA. Dam it.

It's a common problem as hell, many people just don't warry about it, or their exhaust is not free flowing enough etc, etc. There are many such problems.

so you're going to machine out the wastegate housing? does that mean you need a bigger wastegate valve as well?

or are you just going to block off factory wastegate & go to an external wastegate?

i figured that was the problem, let me know how it works out.

juts machine the stock one. the issue is called boost creep. Think of the exhaust gas as watter, it is going to find the easies path out of the exhauts, so a tiny wastgate is not as easy as a free revving turbine, hence the creep problem. I am going to atemp and port mine, but if not, it cost 380 for a new housing ect to get done, and if that is the case pay an extra 400 and get a new turbo. I might just have to put up with 12 psi.

Edited by WogsRus

i was thinking id just fork out $600 & get an external wastegate & a new dump pipe. that would definitely solve the problem im sure, plus that will set me up for a new turbo in the future too.

altho i may have to spend an extra few hundred & get a new manifold too, which ive been trying to avoid so far.

would be good to see how you get on tho, as that might be the easier/cheaper way to go for now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...