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Im 17, on red P's so turbo is out of the answer, i just need any ideas, doesnt matter how much it costs just ruffly looking at what im gonna stab at.

Cheers

Scotty

You won't get loads of power out of it.. But, some stuff to put you on track..

-Catback exhaust

-Extractors

-Maybe a Pod with a Cold air box.. Although there isn't much difference between that and the standard air filter.

-Cams

-Shed some weight, take out the back seat.. spare tyre etc..

-And maybe a piggyback chip + dyno tune

-Extractors

-Cams

-Shed some weight, take out the back seat.. spare tyre etc..

Cheers mate ill def have a look at finding some parts, and im not too sure how much weight i could extract before loosing the legal side of it.

What do you think about,

- Bigger Throt. body

- Forged Pistons

- Adjustable Cam Head

I really dont have too much of an idea with mechanics so go easy :D

Hell if you can get that without much trouble, go for it!

Dads a mech, so yeah shouldnt be too hard,

Only thing is he is telling me that all this wouldnt make a difference just a waste of money, 10$ Hes just bullshiting, cause im going to quick already.

best check the r31skylineclub forums...

i've seen some good numbers from the RB30E...

best question to ask is, what is your goal and application for the car?

Have you got a link?

Cheers

jeez vash, dont like doing anything yourself hey.... maybe try www.r31skylineclub.com ???

start with cam, headwork, exhaust, tune, adv timing, 98 octane fuel, air intake and weight reduction. still have to buy the exhaust (unless your dad can make it) and extractors, cam, and probably and adj cam, along with paying for an ecu tune and dyno time. i wish i had done that instead of putting a 313rwhp RB25DET in my 31, would have been a lot more fun.

how much you got to spend? doesnt matter if your dad is a mechanic, if you buy a $5000 part for him to put on, it still costs $5000.

jeez vash, dont like doing anything yourself hey.... maybe try www.r31skylineclub.com ???

start with cam, headwork, exhaust, tune, adv timing, 98 octane fuel, air intake and weight reduction. still have to buy the exhaust (unless your dad can make it) and extractors, cam, and probably and adj cam, along with paying for an ecu tune and dyno time. i wish i had done that instead of putting a 313rwhp RB25DET in my 31, would have been a lot more fun.

how much you got to spend? doesnt matter if your dad is a mechanic, if you buy a $5000 part for him to put on, it still costs $5000.

Hey Slip,

where r u coming from when u say u prefer worked rb30 to a rb25det? Im looking at both options at the mo so Im interested to find out what u think. Also thinking bout vl turbo injectors, ecu, turbo etc with NA rb30 compression, 6psi.

Cheers, Sandy

paul's rb25det r31 was an animal!!

guess it comes down to what you'd rather - a real snappy hi powered car, or a well balanced car that is fun and driveable.

sandy, rb30et's have been known to make biiig power and some VLs are running some decent 1/4 mile figures

A friend of my brothers has an r31. was a manuel as well. He chipped the ecu, xf throttle body, cold air intake with pod,extractors, high flow cat and rest of the exhaust( EXTREEEMELY LOUD). It went ok but my rb20de with justa catback and exhaust used to be able to pull away from it nicely. He now has another r31 manuel. he just hasa pod onit its bassicly even with my r32 except my car will pull ever so slightly high up in the rev range. .. Whether or not his old motor was just tired or all the mods he did just made it go backwards we shall never know cos the cars a write-off..Just something to think about

a nice driveable rb30e would imo be nicer than an animal of a rb25det

the rb30 has decent amount of torque, and a lot more power and torque is realesed when head work is done

start of basic, extractors, exhuat, intake, 95octane fuel and advance timing just a shmidge

after youve done and are getting bored with this level, pull the head off, get a bit of porting and polishing done to it (maybe even a 3 angle grind), decent cam (wade make a good cam), cam gear and you should have a fun, torque, decent power rb30e

ps b4 the second stage, i recommend a r31 silhouette LSD (4 pinion if possible)

either that or a spare centre that has had a few sticks of weld put into it :glare:

A friend of my brothers has an r31. was a manuel as well. He chipped the ecu, xf throttle body, cold air intake with pod,extractors, high flow cat and rest of the exhaust( EXTREEEMELY LOUD). It went ok but my rb20de with justa catback and exhaust used to be able to pull away from it nicely. He now has another r31 manuel. he just hasa pod onit its bassicly even with my r32 except my car will pull ever so slightly high up in the rev range. .. Whether or not his old motor was just tired or all the mods he did just made it go backwards we shall never know cos the cars a write-off..Just something to think about

Dream on mate... His car must be f**ked, and he must be a shit driver, also your car has shorter gearing and is probably lighter... anyways...

Ok OP, What model is your car? GX/GXE? Is it a Manual?

Ok you want > either an XF Throttlebody (68mm) or a KA24e (60mm) The latter is a direct bolt on but is obviously smaller, getting it enlarged to about ~ 64mm would be good, no use going any more as the AFM is only 63.5mm. There is a Guide on fitting the XF throttlebody at R31skylineclub.com, you also need to bore out your plenum, to match the throttlebody's.

Add a 3" intake, heatwrap it, give it a good pod and a good heatproof enclosure, with some cold air feeds - unlike later model skylines this does actually make a big difference if its done properly.

Another thing that gives just a bee's dick more power is (carefully) grinding off the heatsink inside the afm and taking off the mesh, just for less restriction and more flow.

Run 98Ron fuel and advance the timing to 20degrees (if you dont do the next step) or around that, lower it if you hear pinging.

Get a Darkhalf tuned ECU [cheap] they are the best, dont get ebay shit OR get a custom dyno tune (if you can afford it)

Get a good set of extractors, if you want performance, go a good brand, like Geni/pacemakers etc, get a 2.1/4" or 2.5" MANDREL bent exhaust and a "highflow" CAT of somesort.

Change the Diff gear ratio, from the stock 3.7 to maybe 3.9 (best compromise) or a pinny geared 4.1 if you dont mind high revving on the highway, and get an LSD for better takeoffs

Lightened flywheel, singlepeice tailshaft, lighter rims, good grip tires, weight reduction...

Suspension/handling mods to make the car funner ,and get better brakes.

if you want to go internals, raise the compression to a nice ~ 10-10.5:1, maybe a P&P job if you can justify it, Maybe a Mild Cam - but if you intend to keep the car and want to go turbo later on, i would hold off...

and of course theres always the old RB25 head on 30 block trick

goodluck

I was going to add timing to the list but slip beat me to it :wave:

..and to all the people who have said "cams"... it's an RB30E, it only has one cam, singular :sick:

..also with the cam, if you want anything more than a mild grind, you'll need to get the lifter housings machined, and buy a new set of lifters.

he is telling me that all this wouldnt make a difference just a waste of money, $10 Hes just bullshiting.

Sometimes dads know what they're talking about.

This is one of those times.

You won't see any real "powa" without spending a truckload, or going turbo.

Put the money where it's better spent.

Upgrade suspension and brakes, get a decent security system, start saving some money, and by the time you're off you're P's you'll have enough money to do whatever you want.

(and you'll also have a lot more driving experience, and know how to handle the car better)

blackprincegts, it sounds like your friends brothers car may have had some problems with it.

The RB30E and the RB20DE have close to the same power output, (it may even be the same output, can anyone confirm?) and the R31 is lighter.

With all the mods you listed, he should have been able to pull away from you.

Skit r31: there was no need to take a stab at me like that. I was simply stating that in the SPECIFIC case i was talking about the mods that this guy did seemed to do very little or nothing& that his stock r31 he has now would walk all over it!! I also stated that his engine might have been screwed. So why tell me to dream on mate????And i dont care if my car is lighter etc, that wasnt the point i was trying to make.. I was trying to get my point accross to Vashr31 how the 3 cars spoken of in my post went against each other and thats how we were gauging the power difference between his old r31 and his new 1. DONT TELL ME TO DREAM ON!! i dont speak crap like some people do!!

SKY031 : yeah one would think that he would be able to pull from me with those mods. Even the guy himself said he doesnt believe that all the stuff he did made any real diference. thats the problem with NA tuning, he's not the first person iv seen who has done mods to that extent and not seen any real gain or in some cases gone backwards. But yes, his motor quiete possibly was screwed in the old one..

Edited by blackprincegts
Skit r31: there was no need to take a stab at me like that. I was simply stating that in the SPECIFIC case i was talking about the mods that this guy did seemed to do very little or nothing& that his stock r31 he has now would walk all over it!! I also stated that his engine might have been screwed. So why tell me to dream on mate????And i dont care if my car is lighter etc, that wasnt the point i was trying to make.. I was trying to get my point accross to Vashr31 how the 3 cars spoken of in my post went against each other and thats how we were gauging the power difference between his old r31 and his new 1. DONT TELL ME TO DREAM ON!! i dont speak crap like some people do!!

SKY031 : yeah one would think that he would be able to pull from me with those mods. Even the guy himself said he doesnt believe that all the stuff he did made any real diference. thats the problem with NA tuning, he's not the first person iv seen who has done mods to that extent and not seen any real gain or in some cases gone backwards. But yes, his motor quiete possibly was screwed in the old one..

i wasnt having a go mate, but as said before yeah they have the same peak power output, BUT the rb30 has a good 100nm more torque, stock for stock it would easily just walk away, in take off and peak revs in its curve, then on shift etc.

i cant imagine how f**ked it would have to be, and he must be retarded to not know there is something up, but anyway.

that said you put a moron in a 150kw car and a good driver in a 100kw car and who's goign to win? that doesnt make the car faster, it makes a driver a retard

anyway my intention isnt to get into an argument over this, but what you were saying is that a 20de is faster, this is not the case, a good 30e with those mods will walk away from a RB25de with the same gearing, you cant beat torque.

alo people, dont forget your not talking about a newer engine, its not like the 20de and the 25de's etc which have been setup perfect from factory, to the point where most mods do SFA, with the rb30 simple things like exhaust and intake give it HEAPS as it is so restrictive from factory.

example, a stock 30e gets around ~ 85rwkw? give it a 3" intake, bigger throttlebody, pod filter, extractors and high flowing exhaust and you can pull about 105-110rwkw on average, that is a very decent increase.

also remember its not about peak kw, like yeah a 20de might pull 110rwkw too, but where? at 7500rpm? yay... below that its got nothing and no toque, remember kids, power outputs sell cars, torque and good power curves win races.

30e's dont rev and tend not to make a very high peak power, but they keep high power and torque through the revs which is where the difference is.

anyway

sandyb - my 31 had koni/whiteline suspension all round, swaybars, strut brace, strut tops, etc etc, and a custom R32 GTSt brake setup front and rear. With the RB30E it was fun. I could give it full bikkies all the time, corner on the limit and play with it, it was a driving car.

add a 233rwkw RB25DET that comes on very hard at 4-4500rpm, and try to exit a 2nd gear corner hard, and things get very tricky. Revs have to be right, and if they are, you have to be very careful about feeding the power on. if the revs arent right, it just does nothing then goes berko when boost comes on. not fun, not easy. Great for straight line stuff and torching the rears, but not as a mountain/time trial car, which was my scene.

do the basic cheap mods to the RB30E, have some fun, concentrate on brakes/suspension because my god they need it. i didnt spend any money on more hp for the first 4 years, but was always quickest in the time trials at mt cotton vs 33 GTS-t's etc - power isnt everything.

Maybe just adding the turbo from VL (plus injectors, ECU etc) is a good power level to be at. Does anyone know hao reliable that setup is?

I know that when in 2WD in the GTR the rears absolutly bake (237rwkw) so I know that feeling and dont want that with the R31.

Cheers, Sandy

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