Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so am moving and want to get rid of some stuff.. its amazing how it can accumulate over time...

I have separated it into stuff that i'm letting go for FREE and stuff that costs $$$

Other stuff for sale: willing to post most of it

NEW item: GTS badge and TURBO badge: the GTS badge was from the original group buy, and has been on my car for about 2 years now. it has usual wear and tear for that time, so doesnt look as shiny as when it was new. it is metal. it is the shape of the GTR badge, but in the GTS style. highly sought-after badge for that proud GTS owner...

The turbo badge is relatively new and still has an excellent chrome shine to it. it is made of plastic.

When used together, the GTS and turbo combo signify exactly what's goign on with your car and are a great cosmetic upgrade.

cost: $40 for both

- rb20/rb25/rb26 coils that came from my rb20 before i upgraded to splitfires. They will come in the splitfire box that i have. They work fine and would suit someone looking for an uphaul of their ignition system. They have NOT been modified in any way eg taped up or siliconed etc. Note that they will not work in an rb25 neo engine

cost: $140 for the set of 6 working coils

- coil pack cover from an rb20 silvertop, painted in high-temp gloss red, looks great.. perfect to bling up your motor

cost: $25 --> pics now added

- steering wheel spacer that i bought and then decided that i might go for an quick-release system instead. This is machined from alloy and can bring the steering wheel anywhere from 2cm to 10cm closer to your body! Note: this will only work with an aftermarket 6-bolt steering wheel. This is perfect for that tall person that needs the seat fully back! made from strong but light alloy and is silver in colour

cost: SOLD

- rb20 stock turbo in excellent condition, no shaft play, and comes with rb25 actuator. taken off my car at 140,000kms due to upgrade

cost: SOLD --> note that i prefer pickup on this item

- stock turbo heat shield from rb20, painted in high-temp gloss black

cost: SOLD

Some pictures are attached below, and more to come soon (sorry about the shitty quality)

Stay tuned, as more items will be advertised in the coming week :D

All items are located in New Farm, Brisbane

PM me, or post here :)

cheers,

Warren

post-2094-1165403799.jpg

post-2094-1165403827.jpg

post-2094-1165403840.jpg

post-2094-1165403857.jpg

post-2094-1165403976.jpg

post-2094-1165403991.jpg

post-2094-1165707911.jpg

post-2094-1165707950.jpg

post-2094-1165707988.jpg

post-2094-1165708016.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146273-r32r33-parts-new-farm/
Share on other sites

nothing if you have a boost controller..

the rb20 actuator holds slightly more boost in stock form, thus i used it when i swapped to an rb25 turbo

if you have a boost controller of any kind then it won't matter what actuator you are using

interested in the turbo?

cheers,

Warren



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...