Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do the R32 GTSt ECU's have a boost cut? and if so, what does it use to measure the boost and where is it located?

Just wondering if I am hitting boost cut and if there is anything I can do about it. ECU remap will come early next year when all the bits I have collected go on.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/
Share on other sites

i dont think any skylines have a boost cut as such.

most of them do have an AFM voltage based protection map though. too much airflow through the AFM at a given point on the map will trigger the ecu into rich and retard mode. you will know it when you hit it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2735436
Share on other sites

Do the R32 GTSt ECU's have a boost cut? and if so, what does it use to measure the boost and where is it located?

Just wondering if I am hitting boost cut and if there is anything I can do about it. ECU remap will come early next year when all the bits I have collected go on.

Cheers.

i dont think any skylines have a boost cut as such.

most of them do have an AFM voltage based protection map though. too much airflow through the AFM at a given point on the map will trigger the ecu into rich and retard mode. you will know it when you hit it.

As Baron said im not aware of the stock ECU having a boost cut at all, they do have a speed cut and the stock rev limit is pretty crappy :)

You should be able to raise the boost level from stock (according to mods) with no problems again but as mentioned it will change/affect the AFR's hence why most people get a remap or other form of aftermarket ECU for tuning :(

GMB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2736549
Share on other sites

So R&R is triggered when the ecu reads too much voltage from the afm due to excessive airflow?

Ehh I think it runs a little rich at 13-14psi and was just wondering if the ecu used a map sensor or something to decide when to trigger R&R. After xmas I'll put the rb25 turbo on that I've got and get the ecu remapped, hopefully it should go a bit better then :)

Cheers for the responses :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2736764
Share on other sites

i have no boost cut just r&r something special, car bogs down like a piece of shit when i turn up the boost. need ecu badly! :miner:

as for the boost cut i thought you couldnt go past 1 bar but i dont beleive that anymore as i've hit 1.1 bar before

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2738650
Share on other sites

Yeah well I've seen people on here quote 12psi as the most boost you can run before it kicks in, but if it works off air flow then that can't be true.

yeah i guess it depends on how many restritions you've free'd up like if you have full exhaust fmic, pod your probly hitting it on standard boost i hit it on stanard boost but its amplified on 1bar.

i've heard the r32 ecu can take more mods than 33/34 so you could easily enough hit it with just a catback or something on those models....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2739202
Share on other sites

Well I've got a fmic, split dump with a standard front pipe and cat then a 3" catback (don't ask me why, it came like that O_0), which will be fixed soon :(

Got a turbotech bc and running ~14psi which drops off to 10psi. I had to take some timing out to stop it pinging but it just doesn't feel right. Comes on boost reasonable hard and then doesn't really do much.

Also starts to ping slightly if you give it a foot full after driving for maybe half an hour.. need to shield that pod I reckon..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-2739646
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I think there might be some sort of fuel or ign. cut for over boost.

I was driving to work one cold morning and when I boosted I think the waste gate (aftermarket ext) stuck shut as my boost gauge went off the dial, over 20 psi. The motor lost ALL power like I had turned it off and then came back. I boosted again and everything worked fine. My car is a R32 with stock computer. I ran it up on the dyno to 20 psi without hitting any sort of boost cut, I don't know if mine is modifided in any way to achieve this as I have heard of other people not being able to run much more than 12-15 psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146457-r32-boost-cut/#findComment-3144209
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...