Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i got the 2nd hand ones, they came still attatched to a SR20 rail so i have som idea.

Bottom up (from plastic packages pic)

4th - the little seal on the bottom of the injector

3rd - the big seal near the top of the injector

2nd - these little squarish ones fit over the pin on top of the injector and the half moon/2 screw/metal bracket thats screwed to the rail, holding em in place presses on this to hold the injector in...so the metal doesn't actually touch the injector. (check a pic in the DIY/changing injectors thread)

1st - I have no idea, just came with the batch ??

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Try Lindcorp in Sydney. Thats where i get my genuine nissan parts for my FJ20

Peter

Thanks Birnie , arr that Brighton Nissan is in Melbourne - oopsh . I'm goung to need to find a Nissan spares outlet in Sydney that can do import Nissan parts .

Cheers Adrian .

Oh yeah, the 'squarish ones fit over the pin'.... they don't see any fuel or any rubbing and I see no reason why they would need replacing.

If someone finds out what the top ones are, i'd love to know!

Can't see anywhere they'd go, unless it's somewhere between the actual rail and the engine.

  • 2 months later...

Just to bring up some more info i found out from 'Dale FZ1' cause he is the 1st guy I've found that ACTUALLY HAS 'EM INSTALLED !

Facts :

1) They are 450cc (as Dale used the correction value based on 370/450 to get normal results from the PowerFC)

2) JapSpec doesn't matter, as long as it was manual, Aus is OK. To be sure just check the colour.

(Just to be sure, Auto S15's have the purple ones, equivelant to the standard R33's so forget them)

Anymore info I'll be sure to add as i found out..

Catchya guys ;)

  • 1 month later...

OK, I've installed them yesterday.

Took about 4 hours for completely out/replaced/and back in.

Used DaleFZ1's settings of 82.5% and 0.12 latency.

Crossed fingers and turned the key.

It started as if nothing had changed! Was pretty excited :)

Took it for a drive, all good.

Gave it 2/3 boot and watched the knock, only hit 12 which is pretty much normal.

Couple of piccies below.

You can see 2 stained injectors and one clean injector in the rail.

That's 2x2nd hand injectors and the start of 4xnew injectors.

post-5823-1177716592.jpg

post-5823-1177716624.jpg

So you've entered -0.06? (negative)

I've got + 0.12.

I had calulated your result too, but Dale already had it working on his settings so i wasn't going to argue.

Is you car running with these setting?

I wonder what difference it makes in the long run?

Anyone know?

C'mon Nismoid!

S15 manaul injectors are that browny colour and are 440-450's depending on rail pressure.

Autos are the purple ones are are 370's same as the redtop turbo SR's

NA SR20's had red injectors and from memory they are 320's or something, I cant remember off the top of my head.

I've changed my settings to '- 0.06' from +0.12 and it seems to be exactly the same....on start up only though, haven't driven around on the new setting.

Still wondering how much difference this setting is going to make...???

Anyone??

Did you have to take the plenum off and everything?

If so did you reuse the inlet manifold gasket?

4 hours isn't too bad.

Did you flow test the old S15 injectors? Before and after cleaning?

How much all up did the new injectors cost you? Including the pump then?

Cheers

latency i assume means the same as latent which is energy used that cant be measured i figure it to be related to switching on and off if it works i guess it fine.

as for removing injector rail took off intake pipe and throttle body got it out make sure not to lose rail spacers and intake manifold orings

Edited by mattymagoo22
when u confirm pm or let me know and ill add inj settings to PFC FAQ

Hey Paul,

Going buy the chart i linked on page 1 of this thread, they are definately 450cc at standard fuel pressure.

82.5 is resulted by calulating on 370/448 just to make it a smidgen on the safe side if anything is wrong.

Otherwise it would be 370/448 giving 82.0

Probably much of a muchness really.

Latency - I'll get back to you on that one.

Both setting have the car starting first time and humming beutifully as if nothing had happenned and that using "positive 0.12" and "negative 0.06"

Did you have to take the plenum off and everything?

If so did you reuse the inlet manifold gasket?

4 hours isn't too bad.

Did you flow test the old S15 injectors? Before and after cleaning?

How much all up did the new injectors cost you? Including the pump then?

Cheers

I bought the newies with the pump for 25000 yen, about $300 at the time using Slide Auctions.

And the other 4 were $250 from Aus delivered but hoping to sell the other 2 of them to someone and recoup some $$

If you're buying all of em 2nd hand, you should be able to swing it for around $350ish for 6 i reckon.

Someone scored 8 for $400 on here! Lucky sod.....

Jump on a SR20 site and search there. They pop up every week or so.

Didn't end up cleaning them or flow testing! Haha.

Spoke to one guy and he was a bit gun-ho and had the attitude of "F**K IT, just throw em in see what happens!"

So i did.

My old injectors are nearly 10 years old and haven't missed a beat...and they were HEAPS dirtier than the s15's when i pulled em out.

The 2nd hand s15 were out of a 2001 model so thinking of it that way, only being 5-6years old, i was going to hold on to my $100.

And really, how often do you hear of people on here with injector problems, i can't think of 1 ! But it probably happens.

So far so good :P

Thanks Birnie.

Sounds very doable.

I wonder how much all the seals cost from Nissan..I guess you could just order all S15 seals..

So what seals do you think are necessary to replace from your experience. I see you had 4 seals per injector was it?

Cheers

Edited by benl1981
Thanks Birnie.

Sounds very doable.

I wonder how much all the seals cost from Nissan..I guess you could just order all S15 seals..

So what seals do you think are necessary to replace from your experience. I see you had 4 seals per injector was it?

Cheers

The main seals i used only cause i had em but really, don't bother.

I used the 2nd hand o-rings for the 2 x 2nd hand injectors.

Didn't bother changing any of the top rubber thingos, the ones under the half moon cover.

Hey lads,

I got the first lot of 4 injectors, getting the others this arvo.

Just a question around the plastic area it appears the plastic has been damaged a bit. Must have been when they removeed them from the rail. I have shown using somebody elses pic where the plastic has been damaged.

Is this an issue at all? I thought they were held in with other brackets..

Thanks

injectorss152ts2.jpg

Yeah, they might have levered em out with a screw driver, i did :P

Just got to be gentle and patience and pop, out they come.

The owner of yours may have been a bit rough but that hole in the plastic doesn't serve a purpose anyway

they are held in by the half moon bracket which pushes straight down from the top, you should be right.

getting another set? I have 2 spare.

What did you pay?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...