Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now ive had a turbo gtr/gtr for the last 4 years

never had a problem before

but in the last two weeks it has been busted into twice. i live in a very quiet part of padsow that noone ever comes down so they obviously have been checking the car out for a while.

now last night i cought them in the act (over at a mates place)

they couldnt get it started and left

so i called the cops

then the brains came back with 4 mates in a civic.. they scoped the car out for a bit did a few drivebys. i called the cops again

they were heading to the car so ive come out (not very smart) and they did the bolt. no point chassing i had about 12 beers

cops turn up 1 minute later and go hunting

cops say what car was it

i say skyline and they finsih the sentance "GTR"

anyway i now need a new key barrel and lock and new turbo timer

if only i had a gun

this is the only time the car has been outside in its life and it was in a pivate parking spot at a mates place in abbortsford

pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well,

It seems like ure in a loose/loose position atm. Expect them to come back, so it might be time to revise ure alarm setup and drop something new in there, like a tracka perhaps?

Might also be a good idea to drop ure baby into storage for a month or 2. Sure its a pain, but if they get to ure car and can't tax it, they might be inclined to key it etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-298569
Share on other sites

yea its got a few kill switches

now has a 4 point immobilizer

never gets parked on the street

my gtr key only works on the door now and i have a gay gts key for the ignition

i think thiefs r lower than parking inspector they all should dye

car is for sale im sick of the hassels

pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-299014
Share on other sites

Dan I was thinking the same thing..........

He he - yeah Pete - I'll swap you for mine - Cheaper insurance, Not as old, maybe less milage, less hassle, more sideways action and give a GTR a good run for it's money.......:):P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-299981
Share on other sites

I cringe when I hear of this stuff now. It just sucks to know that you can't leave your valuables anywhere... This is the worst thing about owning such a schmick car. Perhaps you should consider mounting a bull bar to the gtr and go hunting for the little bastards... :headshot:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-301243
Share on other sites

Guest Da_Man

Fatz, sounds like you need to do what i have done. Go to rebel sport and buy yourself an alloy baseball bat and keep it in your house.

Let this be a warning to anyone i find that should not be there. I have had enough from the crap job that the police do.

Like the sign says “Person found here at night, will be found here in the morning” (with a little picture of a gun)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-302892
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Da_Man

Like the sign says “Person found here at night, will be found here in the morning”  (with a little picture of a gun)

Haha. I like that one! want to get something like that for mine...

I'd love to come up with some ingenius anti-theft device. One of the guys from work used to have a motion activated webcam setup out the front with sensor lights. That worked well, but you really need something that's going to deter them immediately.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14729-theft/#findComment-303318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...