Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Go_Homer

Ladies and gents,

I am trying to establish the month of manufacture of my car (Skyline GTS25t sedan). But all I can find is 1997 with no month. Neither RTA papers nore compliance plates have the month. It is rather strange. It'd be great if anybody could help me to find the month. My mechanic needed it for the Pink Slip but I think he gave up and made it up cause he told me not to worry.

Cheers

Homer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14786-month-of-manufacture/
Share on other sites

Only place I've found manufacturing date was on the rubber lines running from the brake master cyl. These are stamped, the last digits being that date.

From memory mine had the month of manufacture as well (Sept. 93 seems to ring a bell), but I can't remember if the month was there or if I picked that up somewhere else!

Hope it helps...

Mine has the month / year on the seatbelt label [near bottom] but is a 34, i guess yours should have something similar...

then of course the seatbelts may not be the original ones but most likely they are... :confused:

Guest Go_Homer

hmmm,

The guys I bought them from, told me (just came up in the conversation) that they had to change all seatbelts, that is to buy them from Nissan Australia for bucketloads of money. It had to be done to comply the car. It had nothing to do with price negotiations, we were just talking at the time.

So I assume that labels on my seatbelts would be new. I'll take a look anyway, who knows.

Thanks guys, much appriciate all replies.

Cheers

H

Yepp, factory seatbelts should have been changed when the compliancing was done.

Like said above - have a look at the vacum hose going to the brake booster. It'll have the date stamped on it, just keep in mind that it may have been a month or two between when the hose was made to being fitted on the car and the car being rolled out the doors.

I recently saw a 1994 GTS-t that had a date of 25th November 1993 stamped on the hose.

Mine has 28th September 1995 stamped on it, so I'm guessing that my car was one of the last series 1's made.......

In attempt to clarify the "seatbelt" issue I recently came across this info from an importers website [http://www.upimports.com.au]

"Seatbelts

- All seatbelts and buckles replaced with ADR approved belts. Post 1996 vehicles fitted with genuine belts."

This would explain my car having factory belts, me is happy now :mad:

And anyone with post 96 vehicles will be able to easily find out there month/year of manufacture from the seatbelt tag!

Cheers.

well unfortunately [for me] mine are the original ones from memory - will double check though.

What a load of crap though - so the ADR states that the factory belts are good enough, but make them put new ones in - just to piss people off!

That would be the part of the local "big 4" involvment I guess...:)

What we are told is that compliance of used cars under the old CPA scheme was seen as being a "re-manufacture" rather than modification, therefore the car should have brand new seatbelts, tyres, wiper blades, etc..

Under the new SEVS scheme it has been accepted that cars are simply being modified to suit ADR's and there is the ability to keep some parts on the car as long as they are in good condition and suitable ... eg. seatblets on some models, tyres if they are DOT approved, cat converters on low km's cars, etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...