Sending my car in for a 360kw setup next month, need advice.

[IM-32-FK]

Hey all,

Im trying to get a 300-360kw e85 setup on a unopened rb25det neo, and i have it booked in for the stop to install some parts but mainly to fabricated full intake piping. Here is what im putting in:

• Nistune with Zeitronix flex fuel sensor wiring hardwired into it
• zeitronix e85 ethanol content analyser kit
• used original z32 AFM
• Garrett GT3076R T3 .82 v band rear
• Turbosmart 45mm wastegate hypergate gen V
• Walbro 535 fuel pump
• bosch 1000c injectors static flow
• turbosmart fuel pressure regulator fpr800
• plazmaman fuel rail (top feed i think like stock)
• plazmaman 600x300x76 bar and plate intercooler(rated up to 800hp)
• shitty stainless steel exhaust manifold i may or may not use
• Other misc like MLS gaskets, exhaust wrap, turbo oil and water lines etc

1 - I wont be running a well-branded forward facing plenum or a exhaust manifold because you are looking at at least $1500 a piece for those. I can get a shitty copy cheap ffp but are those worse or better than the stock plenum? I heard the one piece ffp have shit low end power, so its the best to get plazamaman top half only for good all round power. Will the stock intake manifold and collector be good enough when running a non return flow intercooler setup for 300-360kw? Also is a cut and shut ffp setup on the stock plenum a better option than stock side feed?

2- Since im gonna run Nistune(cant afford $2000+ ecu), i will need to run a AFM. Heard z32 is garbage nowadays and besides its pretty big so it will limit pre compressor housing piping. Im almost sure the 3076r turbo inlet is larger in diameter than the z32 afm (inlet is 100m and afm is 80mm IIRC). Is the HPX-N1 card reader AFM drastically better(they cost about $400). What is the best AFM option in this case?

3- Do you highly recommend getting a MLS headgasket or at least change the head studs? (headgasket change will cost loads but head studs can get taken out and put in one by one without removing anything else on the head[[I THINK]]). If i were to change the headgasket, since the head components need to be removed, what head components do you recommend i buy for something around $2000 that can make the engine push more power and better reliability?

4- Can a non return flow intercooler setup be run on the r34 non gtr engine bay without cutting any chassis?

5- Can i run without a BOV? if not, which BOV makes that loud whistle noise (i cant be any clearer, the whistle noise like the referees in sports use lmao)

6- Is it okay to block BOTH the PCV piping going from the head to the plenum and the PCV running to the intake pre compressor housing? So can the head vent itself proper with a atmo catch can with the little filter on top with both PCV blocked off?

7- Is it better to wastegate the stock exhaust manifold or the turbine housing?

8- Is it okay to plumb the wastegate screamer back into dump(heard the fines were HUGE for atmo screamers)

 

this is all the questions i can think of from the top of my head.

Is there anything else i should know? Any advice will be appreciated.

Thank you

 

 

 

[Murray_Calavera]

0. Please please please strongly consider using a modern ECU. Do you really want to go to all this expense and not have functions like engine protection? Also there are so many fun things you can have in the future (dash, CAN keypads, anti lag, the cure for cancer) you might not want these today - but you might in the future. 

1. Stock inlet manifold is plenty for that power level. 

2. If you have a modern ECU you can bin the AFM. 

3. You can make this power on an unopened motor. With your modern ECU you can run a coolant pressure sensor, and if the head starts to lift you can flick the party-off switch. 

4. Yes, it will be fkn snuggly though. 

5. Yes. Dose is life. Don't know what BOV makes that noise, but it doesn't matter because dose is life. 

6. Yes you can block the PCV and run an atmo catch can. 

7. You don't need an external gate for the power level you want. If you haven't already bought the GT3076R, you can find something easily in the Hypergear catalogue that will suit your requirements and be internally gated. 

8. See point 7. 

Anything else?

I would say if you can't afford the ECU, keep enjoying what you have now and save up for the ECU. It really is worth the price of admission.

[GTSBoy]

And if you do not follow the above advice, please at least f**k off the 1920s vintage Z32 AFM in favour of a modern  card style one.

[IM-32-FK]

25 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

 

 

9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And if you do not follow the above advice, please at least f**k off the 1920s vintage Z32 AFM in favour of a modern  card style one.

Plat Pro is $2300 and Elite is $3300. Its alot of money for the power level im going for. Besides, Nistune has anti lag support im pretty sure. Im gonna get it tuned at JEM anyway, and they are reputable nistune tuners.

on the nistune page they have the r35 gtr and the hpx n1 maf sensors, but they both say you shouldnt use it for piping more than 3.5 inch when the turbo inlet is 4 inch. In this case, can stepping down the turbo inlet piping cause restriction problems and bottlenecking? Im thinking of getting the r35 gtr maf

https://www.nistune.com/index.php/nistune-shop/maf-equipment

Edited December 10, 2022 by IM-32-FK

[GTSBoy]

2 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

on the nistune page they have the r35 gtr and the hpx n1 maf sensors, but they both say you shouldnt use it for piping more than 3.5 inch when the turbo inlet is 4 inch. In this case, can stepping down the turbo inlet piping cause restriction problems and bottlenecking? Im thinking of getting the r35 gtr maf

Put it in the cold side pipe from the intercooler and win at life.

[IM-32-FK]

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Put it in the cold side pipe from the intercooler and win at life.

isnt the air density and pressure meant to be regulated before the turbo? so the compressor doesnt blow unlimited air into the engine?

[Murray_Calavera]

I've personally had engine protection save me. 

My wastegate actuator diaphragm failed and cause the wastegate to seize closed, sending my boost levels to infinity. I was tuning at the time and doing power runs. The ECU caught the over-boost and no harm was done. 

But I suppose engine protection is worthless if you never need it.... fingers crossed right?

[GTSBoy]

Nope. It is an air mass flow meter. It will measure the mass of the air, regardless of its temperature or pressure (OK, within sensible temperature and pressure limits) regardless of where in the intake tract it is place. The air mass rate being sucked into the turbo is the same as the air mass rate being blown out of the turbo, at all times (ignoring during blow off valve events).

[GTSBoy]

Note my nope is in response to OP question, not Murray's point.

[Kinkstaah]

The un-fun answer is:

You aren't really ready for the build you want yet. You may make it there, but, it's not a build you would want to actually have in 2022.

Save up, there are no shortcuts for repeatable, reliable performance.

Almost all of these items are shortcuts, or not required at all. Because if I hit submit reply at this point it'll seem unhelpful so:

Outdated/At their absolute limit (which is never great)

• Nistune with Zeitronix flex fuel sensor wiring hardwired into it
• zeitronix e85 ethanol content analyser kit
• Used original z32 AFM

You would be at the extreme upper limit of this setup with that power. Be smarter.
I know you said you didn't have the cash but:

• turbosmart fuel pressure regulator fpr800
• plazmaman fuel rail (top feed i think like stock)

Both of these are not needed at ALL. Sell them. Buy better engine management.

 

• Garrett GT3076R T3 .82 v band rear
• shitty stainless steel exhaust manifold i may or may not use

Don't use either of these. The turbo is the only power adder a turbo engine has. Any $ spent on a quality turbo is ALWAYS WORTH IT. EVERY TIME. Your performance lives or dies on your turbo. This one has had its day. You will not want it in there, eventually. You also will not want a shitty manifold doing the very critical job of feeding it air.

These you can keep/use:

• Turbosmart 45mm wastegate hypergate gen V
• Walbro 535 fuel pump
• bosch 1000c injectors static flow
• plazmaman 600x300x76 bar and plate intercooler(rated up to 800hp)

You could arguably find injectors or a more suitable intercooler depending on brand loyalty etc.

 

If you already have these parts, proceed to UN-have them, unless you are going to be happy installing them/paying for them to be installed and have a literally below average result. The poor man pays twice. 

Other:

• Other misc like MLS gaskets, exhaust wrap, turbo oil and water lines etc

The best part about an unopened engine is the fact is unopened. Do not change gaskets you do not need yet. Leave the Nissan in.

That said, if you ignore all of this tbh you will likely land with a pretty usable, reliable 320kw setup. Which will actually last reasonably well and still be a fun car. But it could be a lot better, you just may never realise it.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Put it in the cold side pipe from the intercooler and win at life.

This, also don't disconnect the stupid OEM MAP sensor, even if you've disabled it in Nistune it does some strange shit once you start to feed in decent boost as it keeps smashing the very last load column.

I hate tuning R34s using Nistunes, massive pain in the arse.

Sell the Zeixtronix Flex kit, just buy a flex sensor and invest the difference in a Haltech or a Link or similar.

 

[hypergear]

The list of parts you got, assume they work, is fine for 350rwkws on E85 fuel. Externally gated. 

Nistune with Z32 AFM will be fine for the application, I would install the AFM in cooler piping.

MLS head gasket is not necessary, I would install a set of ARP head studs. You can change them one by one without replacing the stock head gasket

Plumb back gate setup is not recommended, with a 3 inches turbo back exhaust it should be just fine to reach 350rwkws

BOV is always recommended for longevity of the turbocharger. 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, hypergear said:

BOV is always recommended for longevity of the turbocharger. 

But dose is betterererererer 😂

Sacrifice longevity with ear sex.

[Kinkstaah]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But dose is betterererererer 😂

Sacrifice longevity with ear sex.

Nothing sounds as good as obviously defective car setup huh.

[GTSBoy]

46 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Nothing sounds as good as obviously defective car setup huh.

We don't all live in the soviet socialist republic of Andrewsistan (formerly the republic of Bracksistan) Greg. The rest of us can get away with a bit of dose. Even if it is totally juvenile.

[IM-32-FK]

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But dose is betterererererer

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Speaking of which, I actually love the loud spool sound and I’m actually thinking of sending my turbo in to get a t51r mod done on it? How’s the spool sound on gt3076r?

[GTSBoy]

Why would you want to f**k with the efficiency of the compressor in that way?

[IM-32-FK]

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Why would you want to f**k with the efficiency of the compressor in that way?

I thought it was only a sound vanity mod

[Duncan]

FWIW, the GTW whatever the hell I have on the stagea sounds like an angry owl coming on and has hectic dose.

I love dose. And the noise the turbo makes without a BOV too.

[Kinkstaah]

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

We don't all live in the soviet socialist republic of Andrewsistan (formerly the republic of Bracksistan) Greg. The rest of us can get away with a bit of dose. Even if it is totally juvenile.

Sorry when I said 'defective' I didn't mean "get defected"

I mean broken, working improperly. Literally sounds like a car running bad because it is a car running bad... whats next, making the car sound like it's spun rod bearings for clout?