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Sending my car in for a 360kw setup next month, need advice.


IM-32-FK
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14 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

You can always turn the boost down.

This is why I say 320kw is the sweet spot for basically everything. Once you go above that you have to do effectively the same things for 350kw (reliably) as you do for 650kw ("reliably")

Very true

im sitting on 320kw and soon figured this out during the planning stage. I knew higher figures are in the future of the car, so I made the decision to future proof a lot of the build (fuel system, exhaust etc). My clutch is currently the main thing stopping me adding more power and im also eyeing up a NPC clutch (the sprung twin disk).

I am confused about the pull push converter though, as I’m not sure which way it needs to be ie. convert R33 push type to a pull or convert a R34 pull type to push??

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2 hours ago, R3N3 said:

convert R33 push type to a pull or convert a R34 pull type to push??

R34 GT-t gearbox is a pull type, like the R33/34 GT-R

R33 GTS/-t gearbox is still a push type 

Most aftermarket clutches on the market for our shit boxes are predominantly push type.

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16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I might try out a Xtreme twin plate sprung centre organic.

I've spoken to a few GT-R owners and they said it quite friendly to drive and probably a bit less bitey than what I have on my car at the moment.

https://www.npcperformance.com.au/series/r34-rb25det-neo-gt-t/


If you think npc which one of these do you recommend for street use with sometimes rolling and drag races. The super heavy duty ceramic button kit one is a puk style single plate that says it holds 450kw. But it’s ceramic so I think it may not be suitable for street use. And is the billet light wheel flywheel worth it or should I just stick with normal flywheel that’s already in the car from exedy.

also do you know up to what kw the xtreme twin plate organic solid center 230mm holds? In the future I’ll try to get like 700-800hp many years from now

 

 

 

IMG_3660.png

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Btw, the Nismo twin plate I had back in the day was entirely drivable on the road once you got used to it. It just has a very narrow bite point.

No, it's not as easy as a single plate. Oh yes, it's more expensive, too but you can live with it and learn it and then it's fine. Such is the ballad of 320+kw.

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4 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

you think npc which one of these do you recommend for street use with sometimes rolling and drag races. The super heavy duty ceramic button kit one is a puk style single plate that says it holds 450kw. But it’s ceramic so I think it may not be suitable for street use. And is the billet light wheel flywheel worth it or should I just stick with normal flywheel that’s already in the car from exedy.

Their product catalogue looks like it has changed quite a bit since the last time I've seen.

They don't seem to offer the 10" carbonic, sprung centre disc anymore.

For a mild street car, I personally prefer non lightened flywheels, however this is subjective.

 

In terms of the Xtreme twin plates, their torque capacity is quite high, you'll be fine. You won't be getting anywhere near 1000nm of torque (and for those saying but my car makes 1000nm+ of torque with sub 500kW, yeah that's not engine torque, that's probably at the rolled or hub because you haven't inputted engine rpm into the torque calculation. You need to use the derived torque channel, which requires engine RPM).

I personally would get the organic sprung centre twin, if you want your stock box to last.

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I had one of those NISMO organic twin plates in my RB25/30 making around 380 killer wasps and it was great

My gearbox lasted well on street tyres as well

But once I used sticky rubber at the strip the gearbox was a "consumable" item

Seems to be a theme with me IRT gearbox's, and diffs, and tailshafts......:8_laughing:

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17 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Their product catalogue looks like it has changed quite a bit since the last time I've seen.

They don't seem to offer the 10" carbonic, sprung centre disc anymore.

For a mild street car, I personally prefer non lightened flywheels, however this is subjective.

 

In terms of the Xtreme twin plates, their torque capacity is quite high, you'll be fine. You won't be getting anywhere near 1000nm of torque (and for those saying but my car makes 1000nm+ of torque with sub 500kW, yeah that's not engine torque, that's probably at the rolled or hub because you haven't inputted engine rpm into the torque calculation. You need to use the derived torque channel, which requires engine RPM).

I personally would get the organic sprung centre twin, if you want your stock box to last.

I don’t know why but they have two catalogues. Here is the other one I just found 

yes if I can I’m gonna get the sprung organic twin otherwise I’ll get the solid organic twin

im just overwhelmed with the choices and brands. What about OS giken and exedy? I’m just looking to spend $2-2.5k

 

IMG_3664.png

Edited by IM-32-FK
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On 23/9/2023 at 2:21 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Btw, the Nismo twin plate I had back in the day was entirely drivable on the road once you got used to it. It just has a very narrow bite point.

No, it's not as easy as a single plate. Oh yes, it's more expensive, too but you can live with it and learn it and then it's fine. Such is the ballad of 320+kw.

I had one too, bought my car with it on, did 40k km on it and sold it for 1k back in 2018. I’m not sure how many km it had on it before I bought the car.

like you said, great clutch but the pedal feel wasn’t great - it felt too light and it was almost like the clutch only started to engage when the pedal was maybe 30-45% off the floor, unlike the organic heavy duty which pretty much start as soon as you start lifting your foot off the pedal.

Is this the only real diff between the organic and ceramic twin plate sprung centre? I haven’t been hearing many good things about xtreme and their drivability, some say they rattle too much.

Edited by IM-32-FK
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9 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

What about OS giken and exedy? I’m just looking to spend $2-2.5k

I personally haven't had any experience with OS Giken, however with my previous R33 (white shit box), I installed (actually @r32-25t installed it for me) an Exedy 3x Puk ceramic clutch and my lord it was hard to drive. Stalled it leaving the shop, eventually got the hang of it however it's nothing like the NPC I have in my current R33 shit box. The Exedy thing was super heavy (made for a R32 GT-R pre-1993) which came with boosters, where as the GTS-t didn't.

Right now you can go on eBay and get a Xtreme Twin Plate Organic (solid unfortunately) for ~$1400 on 999Auto using coupon code SEPP15

Screenshot_20230924-210303.thumb.png.9fac5242aca7b626c4c2bfe9a313c15b.png

 

 

 

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Call NPC and have a chat with them. 

They will build a clutch to suit your requirements. Done this for a few different cars and they've nailed it every time. The last custom one was a ceramic sprung centre for a race car and pedal feel was better than the stock clutch.

Remember if it needs to be rebuilt got local support too.

Other place would be Direct Clutch in Brisbane. Lots of knowledge and quick service too.

Shame Jim Berry retired but you need a spare hour or 3 when you called him.

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I ended up getting a custom twin plate clutch - one plate is ceramic cushion button and the other is ceramic sprung. Rated for 800hp. Also got a pull to push conversion and I upgraded to a heavy duty clutch fork because the standard push fork is thinner and can warp easier. Also also, got redline mt90 gearbox oil with the smooth shifter additive. Should last me as long as the life of the car.

 

 

IMG_3669.jpeg

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5 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

I ended up getting a custom twin plate clutch - one plate is ceramic cushion button and the other is ceramic sprung. Rated for 800hp. Also got a pull to push conversion and I upgraded to a heavy duty clutch fork because the standard push fork is thinner and can warp easier. Also also, got redline mt90 gearbox oil with the smooth shifter additive. Should last me as long as the life of the "GEAR BOX".

 

 

IMG_3669.jpeg

FYP

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