Sending my car in for a 360kw setup next month, need advice.

[Murray_Calavera]

1 minute ago, IM-32-FK said:

thanks for the offer dude but currently i dont trust myself at all to tune it, i might just end up blowing something in the motor.

in the future, with my current setup, ill probably just need to change the turbo and do some minor internal work to get maybe 500-600kw. I think i might tune it myself then (maybe)

All good mate. 

If your scared that you will blow your motor up tuning, probably the best comparison I can make is, people that are scared of going to the track because they think "they will put their car into the wall". 

Well, you never stop being the one in control of the car so yeah, don't drive beyond your limits and you won't hit the wall.

Same goes for tuning. You're in control of the tuning, don't do something you don't understand. You can ask for help from us here, learn from resources online, and make changes that make sense to you. Also you'll have engine protection setup which is an amazing safety net for when you are road tuning. You'd be surprised how difficult it actually is to pop a motor tuning. 

I'm not trying to pressure you into tuning, what I'm really trying to say is it's very easy to learn, will save you a lot of money, you'll know what is actually in your tune (did your tuner even turn on engine protection??), you can adjust your tune based on how you are using the car (changing track conditions etc), as you make further mods you can touch up the tune as you go, and probably the most important bit, it's really fun

I'll stop rambling now. 

[soviet_merlin]

Probably worth mentioning https://www.hpacademy.com/ as well. Haven't tried it myself but people here have been recommending them. Been meaning to look into their ECU tuning courses...

[Murray_Calavera]

41 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

Probably worth mentioning https://www.hpacademy.com/ as well. Haven't tried it myself but people here have been recommending them. Been meaning to look into their ECU tuning courses...

I have their engine building and wiring courses, they are very high quality. 

I didn't buy their tuning videos because there is a much much cheaper option - 

https://evansperformanceacademy.vhx.tv/

As soon as you subscribe, you get access to every course on the site. I subscribed for 1 month about 5 years ago, learnt everything I needed to tune my car within that month. 

Since then a mountain of new content had been added, so about 1 year ago I subscribed for another month and got caught up on the new content. I'll probably re-subscribe for another month in a few years time lol.

Such amazing value from their subscription model. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

9 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

in the future, with my current setup, ill probably just need to change the turbo and do some minor internal work to get maybe 500-600kw. I think i might tune it myself then (maybe)

Better off learning to tune on a stock motor, you don't want to be learning on a built motor that's making 500 to 600kW.

 

[IM-32-FK]

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Murray_Calavera

i bought a Mishimoto Performance Aluminium Fan Shroud Kit 14 inch single fan to mount onto my mishimoto alloy radiator to allow the intake cross over piping to clear to go to the stock plenum, but now im going ffp i dont need the cross over intake piping anymore. Builder said he already installed it. How do these good branded electric fans compare to the stock viscous  clutch with gktech fan? for street use .

"The Mishimoto Nissan Skyline R34 aluminum fan shroud kit will considerably improve engine cooling functions and the overall performance of your vehicle. All Mishimoto fan shrouds are significantly lighter than standard fan shrouds, and are a direct OEM fit. A Mishimoto fan shroud will effectively drive out heat from the engine bay, while delivering a significant amount of cool air to the Nissan Skyline radiator. The fan shroud will also secure the fan blades in place, which will prevent damage to other essential components in your engine.

• Direct fit for the Nissan Skyline R34
• Fits both stock and Mishimoto Nissan Skyline R34 Radiator
• Maximizes airflow
• Includes one 14" fan and all mounting hardware
• Polished aluminum finish
• Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty"

 

Edited March 23, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

stock viscous  clutch with gktech fan

Well, that's a downgrade over an RB25 fan, for a start.

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

"The Mishimoto Nissan Skyline R34 aluminum fan shroud kit will considerably improve engine cooling functions

compared to no fan at all. Almost impossible for a single skinny arse 14" elec fan like that to outperform the stock fan.

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

All Mishimoto fan shrouds are significantly lighter than standard fan shrouds,

OK, there's a generous saving of.....about 200g there! FFS! The stocker is plastic!

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

A Mishimoto fan shroud will effectively drive out heat from the engine bay

That's not the design intention of a radiator fan, but anyway.

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

The fan shroud will also secure the fan blades in place, which will prevent damage to other essential components in your engine.

I'm so glad. That has been kepeing me awake at night.

Edited March 23, 2023 by GTSBoy

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

How do these good branded electric fans compare to the stock viscous  clutch with gktech fan? for street use .

They're worse than the stock fan.

[Murray_Calavera]

@IM-32-FK 

I think it's been pretty well covered off above so I'll just add a little story. 

I recently did a drift event, there was a skyline at essentially stock power levels (stock turbo, stock ecu) with that fan setup and it was overheating on each run. After each run the driver was using a pump water spray bottle to cool down the radiator/engine bay. 

My car at around 350kw didn't crack 80 degrees water temp with the stock fan/shroud. 

[Murray_Calavera]

Oops double post.

Edited March 23, 2023 by Murray_Calavera

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

If you're going to at least attempt any kind of electric fan, get a shroud and a 16" Spal fan, or a pair of decent twin 12" Spal or Flex-a-Lite fans.

 

[R3N3]

To give the new fan and shroud the best chance, make sure it has a good seal between shroud and radiator to ensure max air flow through the core.

As noted above, it will still likely struggle.. I actually had a similar setup, went back to stock and have now gone to a FPG shroud with the biggest and high flowing fan I could find.. I’m yet to test properly. I only went to FPG as finding and sourcing OEM or good 2nd hand parts is much harder and more expensive.

[IM-32-FK]

@GTSBoy @Murray_Calavera @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan

im sick of buying stuff, finding out it’s not what I need and then having to resell it. I must’ve lost over $2k doing this so far with this build.

talked to my builder about the boost settings and mentioned how you guys said it’s best to do ecu boost tuning through a (missile) switch and he said that takes a couple of hours or so and will need a road test too, so he said he’s gonna charge me $400 for that OR he said he tunes the boost for free with a e boost 2. I want to know what my peak boost will be + I can get a e boost for $300-400 used so I’ll probably go with that.

so I’m thinking with the solenoid setup, is it best to go 3 or 4 port? Also eboost2 needs to run and plugged into the solenoid right, not to the g4+ and the stock factory solenoid wiring not used?
 

 

Also also, I’m finding it hard to figure out how the stock IACV is compatible with the plazmaman inlet, like it says it is in the product description. Sure you run the big hose from the iacv to the inlet but what happens with the open part of the iacv now, the part that has the gasket that sits against the factory collector intake.

builder was saying to go slytech universal IACV instead, because apparently the stock one causes issues because of the coolant valves or something.

so tell me how this can mount onto that!

 

 

Edited March 25, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[Murray_Calavera]

@IM-32-FK

What is the lowest boost and highest boost setting you'd like to run? 

What is your reason for wanting to control the boost? (e.g. track driving and wanting to lower the power if it starts to rain)

How often do you think you'll be adjusting the boost levels?

[IM-32-FK]

8 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

@IM-32-FK

What is the lowest boost and highest boost setting you'd like to run? 

What is your reason for wanting to control the boost? (e.g. track driving and wanting to lower the power if it starts to rain)

How often do you think you'll be adjusting the boost levels?

3076r with my setup is like 18psi low and 21-23psi high. That’s why I bought a link 4 bar boost map sensor because neo standard boost sensor can only handle up to 18psi

I will never control the boost and I’ll never adjust boost levels, but I like knowing what my peak hold is. Besides, boost controllers give u virtually 100% accurate digital boost readings, my defi is a dial style gauge, and even though it’s a digital gauge where the vacuum runs to a small electronic module then to the gauge through wires, it seems to always show lower boost readings.

like I said, it’s gonna cost me $400 either way. So it’s either a missile switch or a reputable boost controller with displays

 

Edited March 25, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I would use the ECU for boost control, a bit silly using an external boost controller.

Your ECU could trim boost based on engine temp, ethanol concentration, oil temp, knock, etc. An eBoost can't do that.

 

[Murray_Calavera]

2 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

3076r with my setup is like 18psi low and 21-23psi high. That’s why I bought a link 4 bar boost map sensor because neo standard boost sensor can only handle up to 18psi

I will never control the boost and I’ll never adjust boost levels, but I like knowing what my peak hold is. Besides, boost controllers give u virtually 100% accurate digital boost readings, my defi is a dial style gauge, and even know it’s a digital gauge where the vacuum runs to a small electronic module then to the gauge, it seems to always show lower boost readings.

like I said, it’s gonna cost me $400 either way. So it’s either a missile switch or a reputable boost controller with displays

 

Sorry, I don't think I understand what you are trying to tell me. 

So your currently thinking about having a missile switch, with switch off = 18psi and switch on = roughly 21/23psi?

But you also said you don't want to control the boost and will never adjust the boost levels, what do you want the missile switch to do?

Ok, you would like to know how much boost your running on a digital display. I think this is a terrible reason to buy an eboost. The money would be better used being put towards a digital dash (or CAN gauge if you love your factory dash cluster). No need to worry about seeing a lower value on the gauge with this setup, the value on the dash/CAN gauge is the same value the ECU is seeing.

[IM-32-FK]

19 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Sorry, I don't think I understand what you are trying to tell me. 

So your currently thinking about having a missile switch, with switch off = 18psi and switch on = roughly 21/23psi?

But you also said you don't want to control the boost and will never adjust the boost levels, what do you want the missile switch to do?

Ok, you would like to know how much boost your running on a digital display. I think this is a terrible reason to buy an eboost. The money would be better used being put towards a digital dash (or CAN gauge if you love your factory dash cluster). No need to worry about seeing a lower value on the gauge with this setup, the value on the dash/CAN gauge is the same value the ECU is seeing.

Nah I mean I will only switch between two boost settings, won’t ever adjust boost settings of my own. I’ll keep it on high boost most of the time, so I can decimate all, destroy all, at any given time. I’ll flick it onto low boost when my pockets are feeling empty.

as far as can gauges go, I see it’s like a power fc hand controller. Really, I don’t need to see displays to things I already have readings for. Oil temp(defi), water temp(defi), rpm, speed, boost…I don’t need a display to see my knock sensor. If I get a can gauge I’m gonna have it on boost display, but unlike the boost controller u can’t change boost settings(or can you?)

can you actually change boost and other settings on a link can? Because come to think about it I would like to know what my intake air temps are as well as my voltage

Edited March 25, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[Murray_Calavera]

34 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Nah I mean I will only switch between two boost settings, won’t ever adjust boost settings of my own. I’ll keep it on high boost most of the time, so I can decimate all, destroy all, at any given time. I’ll flick it onto low boost when my pockets are feeling empty.

as far as can gauges go, I see it’s like a power fc hand controller. Really, I don’t need to see displays to things I already have readings for. Oil temp(defi), water temp(defi), rpm, speed, boost…I don’t need a display to see my knock sensor. If I get a can gauge I’m gonna have it on boost display, but unlike the boost controller u can’t change boost settings(or can you?)

can you actually change boost and other settings on a link can? Because come to think about it I would like to know what my intake air temps are as well as my voltage

Ok nice, makes sense. 

As you are paying for labour/tuning, I would just have the boost set to 23psi and forget the missile switch or any other method of turning it down to 18psi. That small a change in boost levels will have only a minor effect on how the car actually behaves in the real world. Power will go from what, 360kw down to 330kw? If the car was being used on the street, I dare say you couldn't tell the difference between the two boost settings. And paying $400 to have a near useless option, oof that's painful. 

When I'm talking about a CAN gauge, I'm talking about something like this - 

https://otakugarage.com.au/product/link-can-gauge-oled-52mm/

I would get a CAN gauge to monitor things like boost levels, AFR mixtures, fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant pressure, oil temps, coolant temps, air temps, etc etc. Some of these things might not interest you now, however it might in future and you'll always have that option available to you. 

You can't make changes to the ECU though the gauge, you'd want a CAN keypad for that - 

https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/

The keypad will allow you to cycle through options that the tuner has setup in the ecu. For example, multiple boost levels, say 12psi, 18psi and 23psi. Having a range like that could be nice, however if it's a street car I can't ever see you turning the boost down lol. The keypad can also be used to say activate antilag or launch control etc. 

Ok the TLDR version - 

When the car is tuned, I would only have 1 boost setting which is, all the boost. I would use the ECU to control the boost with a 3 port MAC valve.

I would buy a digital dash or CAN gauge and bin every other gauge currently in the car. 

[IM-32-FK]

5 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Ok nice, makes sense. 

As you are paying for labour/tuning, I would just have the boost set to 23psi and forget the missile switch or any other method of turning it down to 18psi. That small a change in boost levels will have only a minor effect on how the car actually behaves in the real world. Power will go from what, 360kw down to 330kw? If the car was being used on the street, I dare say you couldn't tell the difference between the two boost settings. And paying $400 to have a near useless option, oof that's painful. 

When I'm talking about a CAN gauge, I'm talking about something like this - 

https://otakugarage.com.au/product/link-can-gauge-oled-52mm/

I would get a CAN gauge to monitor things like boost levels, AFR mixtures, fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant pressure, oil temps, coolant temps, air temps, etc etc. Some of these things might not interest you now, however it might in future and you'll always have that option available to you. 

You can't make changes to the ECU though the gauge, you'd want a CAN keypad for that - 

https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/

The keypad will allow you to cycle through options that the tuner has setup in the ecu. For example, multiple boost levels, say 12psi, 18psi and 23psi. Having a range like that could be nice, however if it's a street car I can't ever see you turning the boost down lol. The keypad can also be used to say activate antilag or launch control etc. 

Ok the TLDR version - 

When the car is tuned, I would only have 1 boost setting which is, all the boost. I would use the ECU to control the boost with a 3 port MAC valve.

I would buy a digital dash or CAN gauge and bin every other gauge currently in the car. 

Ok it’s settled, no need to blow more money than I’ve already have.

but the idea of high and low boost baffles me. Like I said it’s for street use. I’m going to do full send pulls now and then (probably every time I drive it) but not continuous like on the track. Is high boost meant to be unreliable, unsafe for the motor? I just want max psi without blowing the motor or f**king anything.

also I’m guessing the link can is plug and play onto the ecu, just needs 12v and ground?

[IM-32-FK]

@Murray_Calavera

So also I got a blitz 3 port solenoid. Does this mean I connect the 2 factory solenoid wires to the solenoid? and since it’s a plug and play ecu, I don’t need to wire it straight to the ecu?

For example, so something like this has 2 wires coming out of it, those 2 wires connect to the factory solenoid wires in my case of the pnp g4+?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-port-mac-valve-boost-control-solenoid