Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've got this nasty vibration between 1500 and 2000RPM and I'm wondering if a stuffed gearbox can caus this?? Is there anything in there that will caus this vibration/noise?

It sounds like a million heatshields are loose....

The box is old.. my syncros are starting to go as well...

Any help would be great...

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/
Share on other sites

Got that same noise.. only when the car is under big load im guessing?

and completely goes away over 2000-2500rpm?

Im guessing either tailshaft.. or rear diff.. Having mine looked at early jan.. will report back with what i find

p.s. my 2nd and 4th gear syncros are going too :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-2776577
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
i have a similar problem, can hear some sort of noise/vibration but goes away at 2.5k rpm

mechanic says its the clutch that is out of balance or gone

I have just rebuilt my gearbox and the guys I have been speaking to say that it can be 'hot spots' on the flywheel. Get your flywheel machined and see what happens. Only problem is that if the hot spots are fairly bad, then the hot spots will come back because the hot spots change the form of the material of the flywheel.

After saying that, I have had mates with Exedy clutches like mine was and they have been known to give bad clutch shudder.

I have since brought the 'full monty' clutch kit from Jim Berry in QLD. Had it shipped to me here in Melbourne. 3100lb plate pressure. Gret clutch. Jim assures me that I will not get clutch shudder so I will see how I go.

It can be quite common to get clutch shudder with performance clutches though guys, sometimes we just have to put up with things like this if we want the hi performance bits and pieces...

Anyboody else having these issues??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3366075
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Just had my gearbox oil changed and my box is still vibrating on load and sometimes on idle. Also appears the main bearing is on its way out. Just wondering what the vibration may be. Have a brass button clutch in it. 4th to 5th is crunchy as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3517121
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
i have a similar problem, can hear some sort of noise/vibration but goes away at 2.5k rpm

mechanic says its the clutch that is out of balance or gone

Tek, me and you always seem to end up with the same problems on our skylines lol. I'm having this exact same problem. Clutch was just replaced with a Jim Berry made clutch, hd organic type with 2100 clamp load. Noises occur whilst accelerating before about 2,500 to 3000rpm in all gears, except for maybe 5th?? Not sure about 5th.

My fly-wheel was machined when they replaced the clutch. Throw-out bearing was replaced. This was only a week ago. I replaced my gearbox oil about 2 months ago with Motul 300. Wtf is this noise lol. It's not cool hey.... fix one thing, another breaks.. Still love my skyline, but man.....

EDIT - Gearbox feels completely fine to drive, no gear changing problems etc that would suggest synchros??? Please help.

Edited by Simmo1985
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3533481
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

anyone has any solution to this??? im also facing sucha prob... only at low revs, esp when da engine is under heavy load. once rev past 2.5k rev, den all goes smooth n the sounds disappears...!!!

mechanics told me its due to clutch bearing, but i highly doubt that, as if clutch bearing is not in good condition, when da car is idle, by engaging n disengaging the clutch, u'll hear noise differences... thats da tell tale of a worn out clutch bearing.

but this problem only arises during revs btw 1k to 2.5k... sometimes it gets realli noisy...!!! could it be the tail shaft? any more ideas???

anyone solved this problem???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3681510
Share on other sites

sorry, what do you mean by "last mechanic changed the clutch he put the tailshaft on 180 degrees out"???

the tail shaft u referrin to its da long shaft, dat joints to the coupling? is that what u mean? so basically is the coupling joint issue??? or da tail shaft dat connects to da rear axle? or to the main gear box?

sorry im really unclear of all this terms.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3684333
Share on other sites

What he's saying is, when the tailshaft is removed, mechanic will mark the position where it sits so that when it's replaced he puts it back in the same spot. Refitting the shaft in incorrectly results in an unbalance thus causing a vibration.

I have this problem too. Has anyone taken their cars on the freeway and popping it out of gear? I have, so that cancels out clutch problems. Also had new tyres fitted and a full balance carried out. Pineapples have also been fitted. Running out of options. I'm sure someone has had this problem and fixed it by now.

I call these people... Leechers! Lol!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148236-vibration/#findComment-3695039
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
    • Did you even watch the video? Its not a steering wheel. 
×
×
  • Create New...