Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

After doing a few hoops i looked down to see that my speedo had died, so i contiuned to check if the cable was broken, the thing is i dont know because the inside of the cable is spinning but the little plastic thing was not attched to the cable, it was in the back of the speedo?

Does this mean its broken as im sure the little plastic needle comes attched with the cable.

any experiences?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/
Share on other sites

Yep very common. Plastic bit breaks off..

I beleive some places can fix them, after buying several new ones over the years I found out that it was possible :)

They are easy to remove, check around. A place that makes brake lines and cables here in NZ fixes them so try a similar place there.

GTS-T cables are normally not too expensive to buy, but there is no guarantee that it won't break again if it's second hand.

Edited by GTR-Ben
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2770168
Share on other sites

So my understanding is the the little plastic bit is suppose to be inside the speedo cable it self not in the back of the dash? is that correct?

Sigsputnik: if your speedo works i highly doubt the plastic thing has fallen as it is the mechanism that drives the speedo.

Edited by RaZ_TuRbO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2770897
Share on other sites

hang on, what does this plastic needle look like? when i remove my dash, all i see on the speedo cable is, well, the square end of the speedo cable...has my plastic needle fallen off?

(the reason i as is that my speedo makes a clicking noise as i drive)

sigsputnik, thats the sound of a dodgy cable. it hasnt broken yet but possibily will soon. for a 32gtr they are only 100 new from nissan. fairly cheap for a gtr part :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2770918
Share on other sites

u need to remove the cable from the box, where it comes through the firewall is a couple of bolts on a plate, then u have to remove your speedo cluster and it pops out.

A place here in Adelaide actually can put a new steel end on the cable which should never break.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2771253
Share on other sites

are you talking about the gearbox end or the speedo end?

u need to remove the cable from the box, where it comes through the firewall is a couple of bolts on a plate, then u have to remove your speedo cluster and it pops out.

A place here in Adelaide actually can put a new steel end on the cable which should never break.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2771276
Share on other sites

They are talking about the Speedo end. There is a plastic part with a square end that turns the speedo. This has a spring etc and is attached to the cable. Replacing it with a metal end would be a good idea.. should be stronger from factory.

Maybe this will wear your plastic speedo though, who knows..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2771322
Share on other sites

ah, good - so follow the cable from the speedo down? hmmm looks like i'll be in the cabin with a torch tomorrow :P

hope ur got plenty of time and patience. ull hafta remove the dash. the cable goes into the side of the gbox. good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2772973
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

guys i got the same prob. and its the second time.....first time it was the plastic piece that had split so it would lock on....i glued it together...put back it and it worked...now its F@#Kd again. So im assuming it the plastic piece again....

should i just buy this piece from nissan? wats it worth?

cheers boys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2790979
Share on other sites

just went and bought a new speedo cable for 32 gtst. is it hard to replace? do i need to remove more than just the cluster to get it out? coz i looked down with a torch. i cant seem to see that plate. also where does it come out? down behind the clutch pedal? coz i saw a cable go out there sumwhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2792583
Share on other sites

also where does it come out? down behind the clutch pedal? coz i saw a cable go out there sumwhere.

I am pretty sure it attaches to the gearbox, but I have no idea how or where, sorry - this is something i need to find out also. the manual doesn't seem to say, which is odd. how much did the cable cost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2793663
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
u need to remove the cable from the box, where it comes through the firewall is a couple of bolts on a plate, then u have to remove your speedo cluster and it pops out.

A place here in Adelaide actually can put a new steel end on the cable which should never break.

where in adelaide did you get this steel end??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2856489
Share on other sites

mine breaks every time I go drifting,The rapid speed changes just breaks the glue loose.

I pull the speedo cluster out, put some araldite in the plastic thing where the spring lives, then some araldite on the square peg that goes into the speedo. Put the plastic thing into the housing, push it in so it's tight with a small screwdriver, then slide the speedo cluster back on.

Some people have had success with using heat shrink to close up the plastic....I didn;t have success. This way works, just has to get done every time I leave the track! haha

Takes me about 30 minutes to do now. I'll take photos next time if I remember,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148394-speedo-dead/#findComment-2861176
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...