Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i thought it's time to sell my beast and move on to other things , its a R32 GTS4 with fully built RB26 the engine was installed in japan but it got built here

MOTOR : CP pistons

cryo rods

cryo crank

full port and polished head

N1 oil pump

brand new water pump

camtic head gasket

power FC with hand control

all gates hoses and belts

600x100 trust fmic

polished plenum and all piping

3 inch trust stainless exaust from turbo

bosch 044 fuel pump

nismo rebuilt 5 puck 600 hp clutch

TURBO : garrett GT3540

twin R33 airflow meters

stainless polished pipes off front of turbo

tial 44mm wastegate

all braided lines

SUSPENSION: tein coilovers all round

cusco rear diff

BODY :fine silver paint on the bottom

custom made candy gold on top with black pin strip

HOK pearl ice through the whole car

du-luck front bar with nismo race side skirts

and a big rear bar from japan

shaved boot key hole

twin vent carbon fibre bonnet

tinted windows

paint job is about 2 months old

INTERIOR : GTR seats

4 HKS guages

jvc touch screen head unit

new leather boots for gear knob and hand break

the engine has about 5000k's on it and it is in perfect condition it has never been down the

strip as it was planned to at jamboree i am the first owner in australia , the car was tuned

at godzilla motorsports by mark jacobson the car made 507 hp on 21 psi at the wheels ,

there could of been more boost so the car should easly make the 530 hp 400kw . its an

animal on the street so the buyer will be very happy, on the street the car only runs off the

wastegate which is 13 psi , the car will not be sold with a boostcontroller never got around

to getting a new one sorry . the car should be running a high 10 low 11 in 4wd im located in

brisbane south side 0422883933 matt will sell anywhere in aus , prefer brisbane . no joy rides

thanks . if i think of anything else i will post cheers . $25,500 ono if any one thinks thats a bit dear let me know and why cheers

post-9273-1167120489.jpg

post-9273-1167120544.jpg

post-9273-1167120597.jpg

post-9273-1167120657.jpg

post-9273-1167120760.jpg

Edited by drewecrome
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148748-500hp-32-gts4-rb26/
Share on other sites

thanks heaps fellas yeah been doin it up for about 2 years now the head is fairly stock port and polished head new vavles pretty much every thing new and ARP head stud kit , if it didnt make 500 at the wheels then i would of done some head work but it did it pretty easy and safe so yeah . thanks

Edited by drewecrome

Hey Just a few questions

*What year is the car?

*Why was the motor built here but then sent to Japan for install?

*Could you post some interior pics?

*Why are you selling?

*Do you have any standard body parts? (for trucking, wouldnt want that kit getting fu**ed)

*At what RPM does the turbo begin to spool and what RPM does it hit full boost?

*Do the Feds hassle you much?

*When you dyno'd at 507HP at 21PSI, was that in 2WD or 4WD

*Do you have a 4WD/RWD switch installed?

*Are the brakes stock?

*What power are you making off wastegate PSI? (13PSI, and is that what you run for daily driving?)

Cheers

Hey man,

interested in a trade for a S14a, It is the X fiber motive show car. Harlequin paint, leather & Suede everywhere, buckets etc.

If you are interested please let me know trough a PM

Thanks, jake

Here a link to check car out if you prefer

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=0#entry2822364

Edited by jakegts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...