Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What you've said contradicts yourself:

"These are universal hinges so will fit all cars"

"The kit comes with instructions and does not require welding. I believe this is a bolt on kit with 2 hinges and 4 200lbs gas struts. The mechanism of the hinges does not require you to change the door latch."

so which one is it? straight bolt on? or universal which would require substantial modifications?

Also, how much money are you intending on making out of this? shitloads?

Mate, i've got friends who have lived in china before, and this sort of stuff is cheap as chips. If you're making money on it, you have to become a trader.

If it's straight bolt on, and substantially cheaper, i'm interested.

What you've said contradicts yourself:

"These are universal hinges so will fit all cars"

"The kit comes with instructions and does not require welding. I believe this is a bolt on kit with 2 hinges and 4 200lbs gas struts. The mechanism of the hinges does not require you to change the door latch."

so which one is it? straight bolt on? or universal which would require substantial modifications?

Also, how much money are you intending on making out of this? shitloads?

Mate, i've got friends who have lived in china before, and this sort of stuff is cheap as chips. If you're making money on it, you have to become a trader.

If it's straight bolt on, and substantially cheaper, i'm interested.

Manwhore,

I am not making any money on the items. The items aren't too expensive compared to the USA ones, but once you pay for freight and duties, they cost quickly adds up. The freight for my mates sample was just as much for the hinge :) He paid $600 USD for hinges and freight. If your mates can provide me with information of any companies that provide good quality cheap and cheap freight, please pass the info on to me. I would be more than happy to try them out and save money for all concerned.

If I was interested in making money, I would be putting it on ebay for $1000 to $1200 as they currently are and making "shitloads" rather than trying to organise a group buy and telling people that I will inform them of the quality and installation before organising it. :( What I am after in this group buy is getting a pair for my car and saving money like everyone else.

I am led to beleive they are universal but will bolt on, if that makes sense to you. I have not seen them as yet and can not confirm. When I see them and try the install with my mate, I will let people know. Until then,

I can not guarantee anything.

Thanks for clearing that up filecon. You're a top bloke mate. Didn't mean to offend you in anyway, I just wanted clarification. I'll be awaiting eagerly.

I was just amazed when I saw the price, because making stuff like that in china is cheap as chips.

e.g. when my dad went to china earlier this year, he picked up some indash dvd player screen thingies for $120 each!!!!

Edited by MANWHORE

you can use sea freight,

I used sea freight on mine, $50 only to australia. no tax

can ask your friend in china to pack them and send, 20kg is just the max weight you can send via post.

just 3 month...

but not bolt on. i don' t think it can be bolted on coz they'll be mounted inside the fenders not from the original position. also the fenders will be cuted a bit to let the arm go though.

you can use sea freight,

I used sea freight on mine, $50 only to australia. no tax

can ask your friend in china to pack them and send, 20kg is just the max weight you can send via post.

just 3 month...

but not bolt on. i don' t think it can be bolted on coz they'll be mounted inside the fenders not from the original position. also the fenders will be cuted a bit to let the arm go though.

Thanks for the Heads up bankids :huh:

My friend is not in china but in Melbourne. The hinge doesn't look like it would be attached inside the fender by the picture. It looks like it might attach in the door well. Only time will tell.

Wait 3 months for frieght .... I'd die waiting for it... I'm inpatient, I want things yesterday :mad::( I suppose if the GB goes ahead, it depends what people prefer. We can wait 3 months for delivery or pay extra and get them a lot sooner.

Manwhore, no offence taken. :happy: Sorry If I seemed a bit aggressive as I thought you were taking a dig at me. :laugh: I need to chill out a bit. Just trying to save everyone some money. In the end, If I can save a few hundred bucks and also help people at the same time, hell why not. I might get brownie points in my next life :laugh:

I have benefitted from purchasing in GB's and it might be my turn to contribute this time.

BTW, Happy new year to everyone. :):):)

Edited by Filecon

my fren has them installed in his 95 supra, trust me it's welded inside the fender not the door. i have the kit in hand and know how it works. anyone who want to see how to install it i have a dvd..

my fren has them installed in his 95 supra, trust me it's welded inside the fender not the door. i have the kit in hand and know how it works. anyone who want to see how to install it i have a dvd..

Hi Bankids.

I am in WA at the moment. Would be glad to catch up at get a copy of the DVD from you. I am located at Coogee. PM if we can catch up.

  • 2 weeks later...

count me in.

with regards to mounting the hinge will they bolt straight into the r33 s1 and will the guard inner need to be rolled or any fitting mods?

Ok Guys,

Just got back from holidays. Hopefully will be doing the doors in the next week or 2. I got some pricing regarding delivery and such.

By sea which will take between a month or 2 :( the hinges will be around $665 + postage to your location. I will look at pricing for couriers or Australia post. I have factored in approximate costs for customs fees and GST. I am hoping to have postage to your door for under $40. This price will very slightly depending on USD exchange rate at the time. So just before I close hte group buy, I will put the final price as the exchange rate shouldn't fluctuate that much. Hopefully no more than + or - $10.

By air which we would get within a week or so, will cost an additional $140 per item to Melbourne ........

I am happy to go either way and it will be determined on what the majority wants. I suppose we have a week or so to think about whilst we do the install. The camera batteries are charged and ready to go. Just waiting on my mate at the moment.

I will keep you posted.

Cheers Sam

with regard to the installation, i want to know roughly about the installation fee? im in sydney, do you guys have any suggestion for me to do the installation? thanks! >_<

I'm not a business, just a poor chump looking at putting in vertical doors and helping out some others while I'm at it. :laugh:

I don't know any or recommend any one in particular. I'm going to do the install with a mate, and I'll let you know how difficult it is. I'm not what you call a handyman or trade person, so this will be interesting. >_< I think this emoticon pretty much sums me up :/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...