Rb30 Help Guys Read All Threads Too

[rockabilly]

hi guys been reading all the rb30 threads and have decided on an rb30 ,, currently my 33gtr runs 25/30 jun cam 264/272 9.7mm lift. 720,s d-jetro, 600 bhp @ the fly etc.. just sold the block/rods/crank/oil pump/ water pump/turbos and hks elbows.

now i have got an rb30e motor, can get some cp forgies, crower rods..

in the uk also the acl bearings n1 oil/wtaer pumps..

ordering an oil pump collar too

my questions are...read somewhere think it was a post by cubes that cp now make 9.0.1 forgies. is this too high, and what tomei headgasket would you fit, pm,ed, sydney kid and he mensioned squish but hear in the uk its not that simple, engine builders dont get involved with decking and squish areas its upto yourself to tell them..reason i would like tomei is it comes with oil restrictor and gaskets for inlet..also turbo going to be buying manisfold from 6 boost. and fancy a gt35r with ex gate. what rear housing would you guys reckonmend and what waste size.. looking for 500+ foot pounds torque and boost on by 4k ideally. car is road used and a few trackdays a year..

p.s also has a tomei sump baffle, rear head oil return, 25 row oil cooler, 2 x 10 row gearbox/transfer box coolers. runs splifires aswell. just to help...

cheers guys i know there is a lot of questions there, but there are a few of us here going rb30 on our own really building them in our garage.. and advice would be great.. bernie

Edited January 1, 2007 by rockabilly

[rockabilly]

one as she was...is for the minute till i strip her..

[Adriano]

I would run a gt35r with a .86 ex housing. What fuel do you have to run it on? I would run 8.6-8.8:1 comp ratio if you are concerned about knock, and try to run 30-35 thou of squish to help keep it efficient. You really need to dummy assemble the motor first, and cc/measure everything and figure out what headgasket thickness/block decking you require to achieve your squish/comp. o and buy a graduated burette and a piece of perspex, makes the job a whole lot easier. I wouldnt be too worried about the restrictor in the tomei kit, as far as making one it is probably the easiest part to fabricate in the whole conversion. Just get a short length of 1/4in dia brass rod and drill/cut it to suit.

[rockabilly]

cheers mate. i am just worried about the squish thing never done it b4 even though i have built many engines at home.. whats a burette?. excuse my ignorance this part is new to me and the engine people wont be any help.bernie. also do you thing i could achieve those figues?. and fuel here is 98ron optimax

[shanef]

you'll also need a sump adapter plate and modify a few bits and bobs. also you'll need to drill and tap lines for ur turbo (if u've got an NA block). theres also some water lines u have to re-route. you'll need to modify the way ur oil sender and temp gauge fit.

another option you have is, get in contact with RIPS who is a tuning company in NZ and speak with them. I dont know if you know, but another guy from the UK (who has his whole build process on www.gtr.co.uk) sent his car and engine over to NZ and got RIPS to build it all for him.

[rockabilly]

cheers shanef, sump adapter i know about and my makes is making that he,s a cnc operator, the water is no problem, will be using my 26 head so water temp sender shoould be ok. but oil sender? i thought the housing from the 26 complete would bolt onto the 30 block?. that holds the sender unit aswell as the oil filter..bernie.

p.s block has holes but got plugs in so may well nees to tap, but thats not a prob...

Edited January 2, 2007 by rockabilly

[shanef]

cheers shanef, sump adapter i know about and my makes is making that he,s a cnc operator, the water is no problem, will be using my 26 head so water temp sender shoould be ok. but oil sender? i thought the housing from the 26 complete would bolt onto the 30 block?. that holds the sender unit aswell as the oil filter..bernie.

p.s block has holes but got plugs in so may well nees to tap, but thats not a prob...

you'll find that the filter housing is different between the rb26 and rb30 (one is a screw type, the other a push and lock type) also the rb30's pressure sender is separate to the filter housing. basically its alot easier to just bolt ur oil cooler kit sandwich plate straight to the block where the filter housing use to go, and adapt the pressure sender and temp sensor another way.

i hope ur mate is confident in what he needs to do with that adapter plate. i bought one from a user on this site and it turned out to be total shit, so i've made my own

[Bl4cK32]

If your talking about the sump adaptor plate that a certain someone has been offering for sale for a while, there were issues with it which required a small amount of mods to fix it.

It has been brought up in the rb30 thread and addressed by the parties who sell / bought the items. Have u sought advice to find if your problem had a solution?

[shanef]

If your talking about the sump adaptor plate that a certain someone has been offering for sale for a while, there were issues with it which required a small amount of mods to fix it.

It has been brought up in the rb30 thread and addressed by the parties who sell / bought the items. Have u sought advice to find if your problem had a solution?

wasnt going to waste any more of my time. a certain workshop that i do alot of stuff for, had the similar problem as me with this said person, and when this shop sent their engine and sump down for the person to fix, this person managed to drop the sump and crack it (sump being a custom one costing ~2k)

also this person said he'd refund me part of my money, and im yet to see any funds in my account (he said he'd refund me over 2 months ago)

said person also said he was going to stop making them, so who know's what's going on there

basically i've made my own design from scratch, which fits 100% and is cheaper than other's

[rockabilly]

cheers guys, dont suppose anyone has a piccy of the oil filter side of the rb30e block they could e,mail me bernie.

[email protected]

dont collect the motor for a few weeks so just getting my head around it.

[R31Nismoid]

Are you sure these are not covered in the RB30 thread mate?

The Sump adaptor etc.

The compression etc.

I've just had a brief search of the RB30 sticky and come up with answers and info surrounding both, and im sure there is more.

Its not that your questions are wrong, its just that they would be better put into the one thread and what not so people reading it see it there, as you would have also done.

I am slllowly going through the thread to make it smaller, but there is certainly most of the info there

[rockabilly]

cheers r31nismoid. i have read the rb30 thread and several others too, all great for info by the way..you guys are well on the ball with this, but i am struggling with the piston selection and headgasket thickness choice. here in the uk we do not use copper headgaskets anymore and have not done for 10 years. you can get them but you need to know exactly the spec you want. also the block decking issue as in how much to remove. if i take the block /head to any engine builder here he wont have a clue about squish area,s volumes etc.so you have to do that yourself, go to him and say can you deck the block .40 thou etc thats my dilemma. earlier in this thread a burette is mensioned what is one of them?. thanks guys for replying, i know how many times people come on and dont use the search facility, been on forums for many years so i know how it works, just struggling as there are not maany r30/26 ones on the forum running 600+bhp..bernie

Edited January 2, 2007 by rockabilly

[r33_racer]

Im pretty sure i posted a pic of our 25/30 showing what we did with the oil filter and sandwich plate on the block somewhere in the rb30 thread but anyway...sorry R31Nismoid. We removed the heat exchanger from ours on the new motor and left the std thread fitting on the block and screwed our sandwich plate straight onto that for our cooler and filter. You then use the OPS feed just NW of the filter section for your oil pres sender and mechanical gauge or whatever else your running off it, in our case also the feed for the vct.

Or...

You can use the heat exchanger. You will need to remove the push over fitting from the 26 block(im assuming they are the same as the 25's) and the exchanger, remove the threaded fittings from the 30 block and then put your push over one in and then you can use the exchanger for his ops feed and filter. Im guessing it would look something like this.

Hope that explains it better and the pics might clarify it abit.

[rockabilly]

hi racer . thanks. when you remove the housing from the 26 block you are left with a thread sticking out of the block so if you wanted you could just screw the oil filter straight on. must be different on th 25,s. here is a piccy of the 26 block in mine from my rebuild..bernie

[r33_racer]

ok. Im with you. Must be different to the rb25 then. As it has a push over fitting which the exchanger slips over with an oring seal and then you bolt it up with the four bolts.

[Bl4cK32]

yer the rb20 / 25 has an oil filter housing which bolts onto the block, then the oil filter screws onto that.

I swapped it to the rb30 thinking of using all the std rb20 gear (when i put it into my r32) and it leaks oil when used with the rb30. Just screw the filter straight to the block, or u can put the oil cooler gear in between the filter / block if u want.