Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, happy new year!

Well quick story, driving 2 weeks ago on a back road with a mate, gave it a bit, nothing like i hadnt done before and by the time i got home which was about 10mks from when i was driving it pretty hard on a straight stretch of road we both noticed that the car was making anoise from the engine bay, lifted the bonnet and the sound was as if a belt was metal and was going round with no lube to take the noise away(bad description i know sorry). I thought it couldve been the timing chain as the car is overdue for its 100,000km service. I went to a mechanic that i dont know of cos im new to this area (just moved in November) and he thought it could be the air conditioning pulley as the noise was coming from the bottom of the engine near all the fan belts and the pulley was slightly warped whilst going round, and warped by the way of bugger all to be honest, couldnt even tell unless you really stared at it for a while. he said it should be fine and the car drivable for a while before it would seize and then it would just burn the belt out. Well my air con shit itself about 2 months ago but it doesnt bother me not having it. I then drive to a mates place, 50km round trip and the noise is the same. Go to work the next day, its fine, then come out for smoko and go to drive off and the car died when i changed into 2nd doing maybe 20km/h whilst the windows were going down.

When i try to start the car, no ignition lights come on on the dash, the beeping sound still works with the keys in the ignition, allthough now it also sounds when the key has been turned to the 1 before start, i dont think it did that before, the horn works, the interior light works, now i cant get the windows up either. its as if the is no battery connected to the car when i try to start it. I put a multi mtere on the battery, thats fine, checked all the fuses near the drivers side kick panel, and 1 20amp was blown but cant tell which one, i have 2 going sideways as all the others go up and down, it was the 1 near the blade fuse puller thingy. i changed that and also used a different car battery and also checked the 2 fuses in the fuse box under the bonnet, they were fine, plus also another fuse that is connected btween the positive on the fuse box and goes somewhere through the engine, but cant find where, that fine. I undid the wiring loom that goes into the ecu whilst no battery just to maybe reset it on the off chance as well, but nothing. i have volatge to the fuse box under the bonnet. Ive just moved to Melton in Victoria so if anyone can either help me fix this on here, or tell me where i could go or even better just come round and gimme a hand it would be more then appreciated.

Im strapped for cash at the moment so i hope its not the bottom end, but ive blown an engine before in a car and the ignition lights still come on when i went to restart that car, but nothing on this.

1994 r33, turbosmart boost controller t-piece 11psi, and no other mods.

Please help me or any ideas would be greatly appeciated, mind you im not to mechancially minded on this car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/
Share on other sites

If you don't have any lights at all and nothing is coming up probably get it towed to an auto elec, my mate had the same problem but its a different car, it was his indicator stalk (f*kd if i know how that effects the electrical sys) that was faulty and he couldn't get accessories or ignition but give an auto elec a go dude!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2790090
Share on other sites

I think it would be more then just the indicator stalk or some little kind off short like that. I will take it to an auto elec but i just wanted to know if anyone had an idea of what it could be. Could it be a blown engine, could it be a fuse i missed, could it be a problem with something i don't even know about??? Please i really am desperate, im driving my dads peiece of crap vn which has no power at all.

Please help anyone, any ideas would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2794085
Share on other sites

even if the alternator is buggered ur ignition lights should still come on cuz they get power from the battery. id say that if ur ignition lights dont come on but everything else does then it could be the ecu. whatever happend to ur car might have messed with the ecu or completely buggered it. u should take it to an auto elec that specializes in jap ecus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2800379
Share on other sites

Thanx for the replies, well today i stuffed around with it a little. I have found out that i only have power going to 1 side of the fuse box. I needed to short the ignition side to get my windows up. Ive givin up on it, im taking it to an auto elec next week. The belt is still on everything is where it should be. Ive done what i can, time to bite the bullet and get someone that knows what there doing on to it.

Thanx for the help anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2804236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...