Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

This is actually my first ever post on this forum.

I have just bought a 1998 R34 GT-T.

This is my first car since I wrote off my S15 13 months ago. Ended up losing my license for 12 months because of the crash.... Anyways, I am finally back in the driving seat.

Decided to go with a R34 as opposed to another S15, mainly to try something new and also because insurance on another S15 with my now "bad" driving record was ridiculous.

The R34 is completely stock standard. I have been driving it for less than 3 days now and have already decided that i could do with some more power and / or sports suspension support. They handle so bad compared to the S15.

My question is.... kepping in mind that I have $4000 to burn on mods right now, what do you guys think the money should be spent on to get the most out of my engine? Would love to get a bit more power out, (maybe just exhaust, air filter for now) does that addition make much of a difference on the R34?

Thanks heaps fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149664-bad-handling-on-my-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

sorry, I forgot to ask my main question.

I don't know much about suspension, how do i minimise the body roll on my Skyline? I figured I need sports suspension of some kind.

Any ideas?

The car is all over the place....

See the group buy section for the SydneyKid suspension package, get the sway bars as well.

So stock for stock the R34 GTT handles worse than the S15?

Yeah mate the S15 handled so much better, the S15 even felt like it went harder too, think that comes down to the weight difference.

As for this "Sydney Kid" suspension package, where do I find that? Like I said I am new here, could you send me the link to send me straight to it?

Thanks champ

For $4000 you should get at least twin dump pipe into hi flow cat with fulll stainless exhaust, pod filter with heat shield and a front mount, that will probably be at the turbos limit so If you have change try www.greenline.jp for some cheap goodies, pretty anything you need.

------------- remember kids smoke tyres not drugs ------------------

Sydneykid's Groupbuy

I would buy the whole package except the rear strut brace as it does nothing (Sydneykid will tell you this too). You just have to wait for the shocks to come back into stock. If you dont feel like getting everything, at least get swaybars, shocks, springs and castor bushes.

Rest of the money can go on exhaust, and front mount, that should have the R34 goin decently

If you want to stop the body roll, get some sway bars, i got some of sydneykid and they work great, i also got Tein coilovers, some ppl may tell you these are no good but i strongly dissagree

If you want to stop the body roll, get some sway bars, i got some of sydneykid and they work great, i also got Tein coilovers, some ppl may tell you these are no good but i strongly dissagree

How much did you lower your car with the coilovers? Is it a bumpy ride even with the Tein's?

I lowered a fair bit compaired to stock and can still go lower :PBJ: ive got Type Flex coilovers and its pretty bumpy but im not complaining, might be to much for some skirts :P

post-18661-11674429091258802402.jpg

Car wasnt built for comfort, the only problem at the moment is that i need ajustable upper rear control arms, there is a bit of camber in the rear but that is easily fixed, when the car is jacked up the springs are still compressed and the car is sitting on uneven ground in that pic but its sitting perfectly level. Handling is great, grip on the front and can let it slide in the rear when i want :)

I strongly advise you go for a run in a Skyline thats had the Kid treatment suspension , best way to describe the result is that you car suddenly feels smaller and far more nimble than it had . Cournering limits are amazing I suspect because the geometry keeps more of your tyres rubber on the road in most situations .

I would have Bilstein dampers over anything Japanese because they work and are rebuildable here .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...