Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

This is actually my first ever post on this forum.

I have just bought a 1998 R34 GT-T.

This is my first car since I wrote off my S15 13 months ago. Ended up losing my license for 12 months because of the crash.... Anyways, I am finally back in the driving seat.

Decided to go with a R34 as opposed to another S15, mainly to try something new and also because insurance on another S15 with my now "bad" driving record was ridiculous.

The R34 is completely stock standard. I have been driving it for less than 3 days now and have already decided that i could do with some more power and / or sports suspension support. They handle so bad compared to the S15.

My question is.... kepping in mind that I have $4000 to burn on mods right now, what do you guys think the money should be spent on to get the most out of my engine? Would love to get a bit more power out, (maybe just exhaust, air filter for now) does that addition make much of a difference on the R34?

Thanks heaps fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149664-bad-handling-on-my-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

sorry, I forgot to ask my main question.

I don't know much about suspension, how do i minimise the body roll on my Skyline? I figured I need sports suspension of some kind.

Any ideas?

The car is all over the place....

See the group buy section for the SydneyKid suspension package, get the sway bars as well.

So stock for stock the R34 GTT handles worse than the S15?

Yeah mate the S15 handled so much better, the S15 even felt like it went harder too, think that comes down to the weight difference.

As for this "Sydney Kid" suspension package, where do I find that? Like I said I am new here, could you send me the link to send me straight to it?

Thanks champ

For $4000 you should get at least twin dump pipe into hi flow cat with fulll stainless exhaust, pod filter with heat shield and a front mount, that will probably be at the turbos limit so If you have change try www.greenline.jp for some cheap goodies, pretty anything you need.

------------- remember kids smoke tyres not drugs ------------------

Sydneykid's Groupbuy

I would buy the whole package except the rear strut brace as it does nothing (Sydneykid will tell you this too). You just have to wait for the shocks to come back into stock. If you dont feel like getting everything, at least get swaybars, shocks, springs and castor bushes.

Rest of the money can go on exhaust, and front mount, that should have the R34 goin decently

If you want to stop the body roll, get some sway bars, i got some of sydneykid and they work great, i also got Tein coilovers, some ppl may tell you these are no good but i strongly dissagree

If you want to stop the body roll, get some sway bars, i got some of sydneykid and they work great, i also got Tein coilovers, some ppl may tell you these are no good but i strongly dissagree

How much did you lower your car with the coilovers? Is it a bumpy ride even with the Tein's?

I lowered a fair bit compaired to stock and can still go lower :PBJ: ive got Type Flex coilovers and its pretty bumpy but im not complaining, might be to much for some skirts :P

post-18661-11674429091258802402.jpg

Car wasnt built for comfort, the only problem at the moment is that i need ajustable upper rear control arms, there is a bit of camber in the rear but that is easily fixed, when the car is jacked up the springs are still compressed and the car is sitting on uneven ground in that pic but its sitting perfectly level. Handling is great, grip on the front and can let it slide in the rear when i want :)

I strongly advise you go for a run in a Skyline thats had the Kid treatment suspension , best way to describe the result is that you car suddenly feels smaller and far more nimble than it had . Cournering limits are amazing I suspect because the geometry keeps more of your tyres rubber on the road in most situations .

I would have Bilstein dampers over anything Japanese because they work and are rebuildable here .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...