Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

valve stem seals would normally be only on a cold start, from oil building up, correct me if im wrong.

Only way to check if it was the exhaust side of the turbo would be to pull it off i think. As exhaust would be hot enough to burn up any traces of oil.

yeah i knew i would've had to rip it off to check, im just a lazy bitch looking for an easy solution.

ill probably just disconnect my dump pipe and see how i go. do i check for shaft play of what?

turbo seals can blow smoke anytime, can do it on idle, can do it under power, can do it when you back off....all depends how bad it is. like i said previously, the front wheel is being pulled forwards which moves the rear wheel forwards too...excessive shaft play can change seal tolerances, plus oil pressure under changed seal tolerances can = oil leakage = smoke under load... seen it happen.

  • 2 weeks later...

the problem has been pretty much figured out guys (pending new oil line).

what we think it may be is when i rebuilt my motor i rebuilt it with an N1 high volume oil pump. this pump pumps around 20-25% more oil as well as pressure at any given rpm compared to standard. so the turbo is receiving 20-25% more oil than is recommended and is getting forced past the oil ring.

im waiting on an oil line with a 4mm restrictor, so fingers crossed!

basicly why the turbo seals do it under decel is theres no pressure in the exhaust manifold. this makes it easier to leak oil past them.

under boost theres usally almost double your intake pressure in the ex-manifold.

turbo wheel moves forward ever so slightly under boost letting that extra pressure escape past your seals into the exh housing.

what sort of turbo again? because the turbo should be able to put up with a little more pressure im sure of it. they aren't border line.

A hard free rev?

What have you done with your oil restrictors?

How is your oil level? Its not over full?

A hard rev to 7000rpm in the first 3 gears with the std restrictors saw my cam covers start to fill, the oil then begins pushing out the breathers in to the turbo -> afm pipe and then it really plooms smoke out the rear. :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...