Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys its usually a simple task i know but ive emptied my master cylinder completely and now i need to rebleed the whole system since installing the r34 brembos and new braided lines. this is a wgnc34 stagea im talking about.

now i have the r32 gtr workshop manual (i only got the jap stagea one so its no use to me) and it shows u need to bleed the abs unit itself, which has 2 nipples on the top of it, but the stagea one doesnt and only has 2 lines on top, so how do i bleed the abs?

obviously the rest is easy and start from the rear left wheel, rear right, front left and front right last.

any ideas on bleeding with the 4 spot brembos which have 2 nipples on each caliper? do i just do the left front wheel first and do the furthest nipple first, then the closer nipple and then the front right in the same order (starting from furthest to closest)???

any info appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150058-bleeding-brake-system-abs-unit/
Share on other sites

thanks mate but i already have the 32 gtr manual and it doesnt tell u how to bleed the brembos and it says bleed from top of the abs unit nipples in which my stagea doesnt have any and has 2 lines on top of the abs instead that run to the master cylinder.

From memory working on commodores you don't actually have too bleed the abs unit it's done automatically when you bleed all the calipers. You just have to remember when changing your pads not to just push the cyliners back in as it backfeeds the abs unit and f**ks it...Might be the same with the 33's if the units have no bleed nipple on them....

No need to bleed the ABS unit just calipers, and long as you havn't removed or replaced the master you wont even have to bleed that. Its teh same as doing a brake fluid flush, you suck the reseviour dry and just refill it then flush the lines..no need the bleed the master.

If you do run into trouble however you can do a pressure bleed on the master by cracking the lines while you have a helper pump up and hold the pedal.

R33 ABS unit is probably bled with the consult/scan tool electronically

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
  • Like 1
You just have to remember when changing your pads not to just push the cyliners back in as it backfeeds the abs unit and f**ks it....

So what's the trick to get the pistons back into the calipers safely when ABS is fitted ?

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...