Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

getting a few bolt ons for my GTR soon and i've purchased most of the parts.

Here they are

34 N1 turbs

trust dumps/fronts

PFC

cat

exhaust

JB clutch

bosch 040

sard 700 inj

THe last thing i don't have is a boost controller.

I haven't decieded between the turbotech one ($22) or a EBC.

Can someone explain the pro and cons of both and if the EBC is a better way to go, should i go for the apexi one or somthing else.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150293-ebc-or-turbotech-bc/
Share on other sites

i've heard alot of good feedback about the turbotech boost vavles, like they come onto boost quicker and there very accurate. but i used to always get told that you should only use EBC's because they dont spike and you can see wat you've set your psi to wihout haveing to drive it and read ur psi off you boost gauge.

id rather the EBC but the cost of them compared to the turbo tech units is a bit much (im still an apprentice) so id get the turbotech boost valve.

dont know if that helps at all . . .

:(

Anything up to 15 - 18 psi the turbotech will do the job just fine... i have been running it in my car on 10psi for quite sometime without a single spike... but my car is pretty much stock...

For larger power applications and high boost settings, a decent EBC is the way to go... the Greddy Profec II are selling for $390 delivered! Pretty cheap investment for an accurate boost control unit with incabin adjustment and setting...

Cheers

Anything up to 15 - 18 psi the turbotech will do the job just fine.

For larger power applications and high boost settings, a decent EBC is the way to go...

The other option is to get a larger spring for the turbotech, which will hold high boost better.

I've seen both on a dyno, and the EBC is obviously better, but the turbotech does a very good job. EBC sat right on the set boost, the turbotech creeped 2psi over 4000rpm, no spiking though and good boost build. Hard to compare that to EBC though cos they were on different cars with different turbos

I've got the Blitz DSBC spec-R and yeah, very happy with it.

Edited by salad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...