Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am selling my R32 and I have a stash of parts that were to go on it but hence no need anymore. All prices are firm. NO low ball offers, if you're serious pick up the phone and call. Here goes;

***PRICE DROP ON EVERYTHING***

***ALL PARTS GOTTA GO***

For sale: HDI tube & fin intercooler kit for R32 GTS-t, 600x300

Item Condition: Brand spankin new

Price and price conditions: $390

Extra Info: Comes with everything in pic + clamps and brackets. Note this is a tube & fin version which flows better than bar & plate equivalent of the same brand. RRP $720

Pictures: See at bottom

Contact Details: 0412 776 276

Location: Melbourne

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup only.

For sale: BOMEX Aero mirror to suit R32 GTS-t (they're for a two door but I bought them for my 4 door and they fit snuggly, a few adjustments and they'd be fine - see pics below for them on my 4 door)

Item Condition: New

Price and price conditions: $290

Extra Info: They're in perfect condition and come with everything required to fit them - screws, instructions etc. Made from FRP, not plastic.

Pictures: See at bottom

Contact Details: 0412 776 276 - serious enquiries only please.

Location: Melbourne

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup preferred, will courier interstate (direct deposit)

Cheers all,

Chris

post-24809-1168134131.jpg

post-24809-1168134259.jpg

post-24809-1168134293.jpg

Edited by 4doorHCR32
hey chris have you fit the front bar to your car? how does it fit? Also is the bumper painted white or is it not painted cant see in the pic :)

Hey Nick - I have only fitted it with cable ties just to see how it fit/matched with bits of another kit I had (sice sold), but I haven't had it on my car 'properly'. It's not painted either mate, just the way it is.

To be honest, the fit and finish isn't near the quality of genuine Japanese kits, but it is a reproduction and the price reflects that. If fitted and painted by a professional it would look fantastic...this is not a problem for you tho, is it mate... :rant:

nah no problem, i duno which way to go though for front bar just tryin to decide mayb go bn or vertex as i got the vertex skirts and rear bar. Ive got a gtr with n1 vents but i duno.

BTW i ended up leaving my car white and just resprayin it, i took the spoiler off to looks hawt ill post pics when i get some wheel spacers to put my rims on :rant:

nah no problem, i duno which way to go though for front bar just tryin to decide mayb go bn or vertex as i got the vertex skirts and rear bar. Ive got a gtr with n1 vents but i duno.

BTW i ended up leaving my car white and just resprayin it, i took the spoiler off to looks hawt ill post pics when i get some wheel spacers to put my rims on :rant:

Sounds awesome mate, make sure you post a pic in the R32 four door picture thread :)

They look the best in white IMHO...!

Btw, I got ALL clear front indicators (from Blitz) I would swap + cash for factory 32 items if anyone is interested...Melbourne only...CBF'd with the interstate thing...if they don't sell/swap I throw em on my car before I sell it.

No offence dude but your prices are a tad high as well as your not open to negotiation so how do you expect to sell?

you sure thats an R34 turbo? shouldn't the rear ex housing have OP6 same as the VG30? yours has 21U

If its genuine R34.. ill give you $350 NO OFFERS

Cheers

No offence dude but your prices are a tad high as well as your not open to negotiation so how do you expect to sell?

you sure thats an R34 turbo? shouldn't the rear ex housing have OP6 same as the VG30? yours has 21U

If its genuine R34.. ill give you $350 NO OFFERS

Cheers

Look at the comp cover, here's a list for you;

RB20 = 16V

R33 RB25 = 45V4

R34 RB25 = 45V1

Thanks for the feedback, if you can get a 2500km old R34 GT-t turbo for $350 I suggest you buy it. Thanks also for your offer, but no thanks! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...