Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item on hold until I figure whether it can be started or not. For those who have pm'd or called me, or left note of interest in this thread, I'll get back to you when I know the condition of the engine which will hopefully be this weekend if I discover it myself, or next week when I get it to a mechanic.

Drew.

post-10303-1168237967.jpg

post-10303-1168237986.jpg

Edited by Dee 33

Hey,

Not hijacking the post but does anyone know what that kit is? I've been looking for something and I think thats pretty nice... Please PM if you know.

Also mate, if you do decide to wreck it I'm interested in quite a few parts... but good luck with whole car sale! Real sorry to hear about the accident though, mine is not insured and I rekon I would freak if that happened. Hope u find something else as nice.

Francesca

It's a manual. Stupid me forgot to include that. It also has a single plate ceramic clutch included in the mods under two years old. This clutch cost me $1000 and bites very hard. Hard to get used to using though but I've mastered it.

The front bar was purchased off ebay for $100 with a crack in it. There are no bulbs behind the indicators and I believe it's a copy because the hole in the front where the intercooler sits, doesn't line up evenly with the headlight :D

http://secretdrift.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9443

Different Price, Different Info, Different Poster... I happen to know the guy who posted it on Secretdrift, Im a moderator there id previously closed the thread and reopened it after a lengthy discussion with Eddzy.

This gets more suspect by the minute however, buyer beware :whistling:

One minute its running thats why its a higher price, and its going to be ammended here, next minute the poster on here says it could be seized they dont know if its running... please be careful guys.

http://secretdrift.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9443

Different Price, Different Info, Different Poster... I happen to know the guy who posted it on Secretdrift, Im a moderator there id previously closed the thread and reopened it after a lengthy discussion with Eddzy.

This gets more suspect by the minute however, buyer beware :)

One minute its running thats why its a higher price, and its going to be ammended here, next minute the poster on here says it could be seized they dont know if its running... please be careful guys.

Eddzy is a friend of mine and he posted it there on his own accord, doing me a favor. I have taken my ads down here and on Boostcruising because I don't know the condition of the engine at the moment as I can't get it started due to what a mechanic has told me is likely to be hydraulic lock, meaning the cylinders might have oil in them due to the car being upside for probably an hour at the crash scene. An engine won't kick over with enough oil in the cylinders because it can't compress it.

I will put the ad back up when I know if it runs or not and the price I put will be based on whether or not the engine is running.

For reference, I am KylerKF on Boostcruising. I've been an active member there for years (although not in the last few months as I don't work in an office anymore) and quite a few members from there know both me and the car in person.

Edited by Dee 33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
    • The pinchweld is fine, even with a trolley jack, so long as you're not actually pushing on the pinchweld itself. More to the point, we shouldn't talk about lifting or supporting on the pinchweld, we should talk about using the sill "jacking points", which just happen to be adjacent to the pinchweld. I just have dense rubber blocks with grooves in them for each of the chassis stands and the trolley jack, that I use at the sill jacking points if/when I have to lift/support there. They put all the load onto the steel pad of the jacking point and not the pinchweld. As intended.
    • Makes sense.  I would do something different if I felt like there was a better option. Generally the only other area I'm happy to jack on is where I want to put the stand. The pinch weld is not an option for me for either the jack or stands, so very limited options overall.  Plus never having had an issue with doing this, has kinda reinforced in my mind that it's fine. I'd do it on any car without a second thought these days lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...