Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After takin the ceffy to the pits today they have told me i need to "rectify loud induction noise" or the flutter on gear changes. I have an FMIC and a M's pod filter and space is extremely tight . Is there any way i can muffle the fluffer so its not so loud?

Its only on stock boost and i dont have space to build an enclosure around the pod.

Hopefully there is another way other than fittin all stock gear back on again cos for a start i dont have any of it

cheers mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/
Share on other sites

I had wicked induction noise on my cefi with standard turbo, standard boost and a HKS pod. I even put on a new pod and it was still too loud for them. basically i said it was complied like this and never came with an airbox so this level of noise must be acceptable.

Fight it :wave:

JK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2821630
Share on other sites

^^^ that seems right - i wouldnt diconnect the actuator rod - uncontrolled boost levels

the turbo will still spool even if the wastegate is not connected and could potentially damage your turb

ohh and rb20det ceffs never came with a factory BOV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2821955
Share on other sites

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldnt that let the boost rise uncontrollably? ie. unhooking actuator rod means wastegate stays closed???

That's what I first thought, but that is what would happen if you disconnected the actuator hose, ie the spring would just hold it closed. if you take the rod off, the spring is doing nothing and the wastegate flap just swings around, and would open with no effort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2821974
Share on other sites

yeh at first i thought woud just make uncontrolable boost, then i thought about it some more if i disconnect the rod then jammed the wastegate open sum how then the turbo wod make no boost, car woud b a bit of a pig as a boost woud b just gettin blown straight out the wastegate hole. Ony thing i am worried about is the turbo could b free spinning and could damage it??.

Jai i tried arguin that point aready but the pit guy wouldnt have it his words were "well i could pass it like that but then u woud go gunnin down the road straight past mr plod then there is a big wooshy noise u get puled over a yellowed and ur back here again"

mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2822209
Share on other sites

Just un hook the actuator rod, easy fix. Just make sure you dont loose the little circlip, but if you do just use some fine wire to hold it on. If you cant take the rod off lossen to two 12mm bolts on the actuator rod bracket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2824868
Share on other sites

Location of bov is also pretty critical if not using the factory location.. the genius that put the R2D2 on my car put it under the front right guard, leaving a good 1.5-2m of piping before the throttlebody. At light throttling-off I get massive flutter :) can probably adjust the bov but I cbf and will deal until I get the stocker on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151310-quieter-flutter/#findComment-2826570
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...