Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Those running ATMO BOV's will know the problem of stalling between gear changes.

Now the APEXI SAFC 1,2 and neo should all be tuned by a professional on the dyno for best SAFE results.

You can however tune the 'dec air' function of ur safc with no problem following this guide outlined below.

I have done htis to my r33 and have great results.

DEC AIR SETTINGS

""when the car is completely cool start it up. have the safc mointoring throttle %, air flow, and rpms. have the engine at 1000rpms and write down the air flow. then have the engine at 2000rpms and write down the throttle % and air flow.

now go to the dec. air settings. the THR setting is the throttle % you documented at 2000rpms. the NE1 setting is the air flow you had at 1000rpms. the NE2 setting is the air flow you had at 2000rpms. this will get you very close to the settings you need. may not be perfect but very close. this will allow you to run an atmospheric bov without stumbling between gears""

One thing i do different- I set my Thr% to 1%. this basically tells the safc that when there is less than 1% of throttle to use the 'dec air' settings i have outlined, have had no issues with this so far.

This will not effect the rest of ur drving or ecu maps, only the off throttle so u car wont stall any more.

Side note- The SAFC is a useful interceptor piggy back computer. However If tuned incorrectly with out proper tools or knowhow can casue major damage to your engine.

I have Used this method for DEC AIR wiht great results.

:)

Edited by tmc_2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151358-safc-dec-air-tuning/
Share on other sites

Can this also be done on a PFC?

Hi Kennedy,

From what i know the PFC controls this as good as or better than the SAFC.

I dont know how to tune one or what its called on a PFC as i have not yet had the opportunity to use one.

I would think a PFC would have a much more wholesome method of controlling 'dec air' settings as well as other engine conditions.

If your having trouble with that metal intake pipe causeing stalling maybe try getting ur pfc tuned and emphasise to the tuner why.

I had constant stalling issues after installing the metal intake pipe. I installed it corectly and have no leaks.

With my SAFC NEO tuned using this above method and stopped it stalling completley.

Let me know how things go.

Hi Kennedy,

From what i know the PFC controls this as good as or better than the SAFC.

I dont know how to tune one or what its called on a PFC as i have not yet had the opportunity to use one.

I would think a PFC would have a much more wholesome method of controlling 'dec air' settings as well as other engine conditions.

If your having trouble with that metal intake pipe causeing stalling maybe try getting ur pfc tuned and emphasise to the tuner why.

I had constant stalling issues after installing the metal intake pipe. I installed it corectly and have no leaks.

With my SAFC NEO tuned using this above method and stopped it stalling completley.

Let me know how things go.

The car has been tuned and I asked hitman if he could "tune" it out but he said he cant.

Bearing in mind that my car only has hunt issues if I dont make boost. eg...when putting around a car park and stuff. If I'm giving it then slow down and shift down/slip into nuetral then the car idle drops brack straight to 800rpm and stays there. It only happens when RPM doesnt exceed around 2K RPM

The car has been tuned and I asked hitman if he could "tune" it out but he said he cant.

Bearing in mind that my car only has hunt issues if I dont make boost. eg...when putting around a car park and stuff. If I'm giving it then slow down and shift down/slip into nuetral then the car idle drops brack straight to 800rpm and stays there. It only happens when RPM doesnt exceed around 2K RPM

Hmm must be something to do with how ur intake return pipes are. I don thave any hunting issues now i have secured a decent BOV return and iol breather return.

Id say thats wherer the problem lies.

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...
bump,

can this be used to elimitate the plumback function altogether? upgraded to a bigger turbo and didnt think about the plumback :) , so car stalling all the time.

yes, this is for if you have an aftermarket blowoff valve that vents the excess air out instead of the stock bypass valve returning the unused air into the system.

it would help with the stalling but what also helps is bumping your idle up alittle.

nothing will be perfect for cars that are not meant to vent to atmo, only cars that run on a map sensor instead of a maf like us will not stall.

what are you using for a blowoff valve?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...